Grenada – Spice Island Paradise

Entering the Bays of Grenada is somewhat of a challenge and we were glad we managed to make it before nightfall.

The coast is littered with Reefs and the channel markers are not all longer there. Not a problem in daylight when you can see the waves breaking over the shallow reefs but we would not like to have approached it for the first time at night!

As we anchored night fell and we settled down. We were supposed to have checked in within two hours of arrival but had been told the Grenada authorities were pretty relaxed. The problem with checking in after-hours is the additional fees you pay.

 

The following morning just before eight we took the dinghy around to “Le Phar Bleu” where one of the Customs points are located. What a beautiful setting. The marina is pristine. The water is crystal clear. We had mentally prepared ourselves for the customs visit! What a surprise! The officials were warm welcoming and had no “issues” what-so-ever. We had not had a chance to go and draw EC$ (Eastern Caribbean Dollars) yet so could not pay our entry fees. They had no problem at all and said we could come back and pay when we had been to town!

In Grenada the main means of transport is the bus! We were expecting the large (London red bus) type vehicle but their busses are panel vans, like our taxis in SA! Their taxis are the same but marked with “Taxi” and are much more expensive. You can go just about anywhere on the island for EC$2.5 (about R7) each way by bus. The same trip in a “Taxi” is anything between EC$20 – 40. The main difference is in the Taxi you would be the only passenger, in the bus they have even squeezed extra seats in and at capacity hold between 16 and 20 people. J

The Grenadians are open friendly people, always ready with a laugh. Unlike T & T there are no catcalls. No khiss khisses and no inappropriate comments, even when I was in town alone! The only funny chirp I had when I went to town, one man, about my age was sitting on a bench with three young men drinking beer. As I walked past he said “good morning” and I responded. Then he said “do you know something?” I looked at him expectedly and he said “I love you”. I cackled it was done so inoffensively I could only laugh! They also had a laugh.

We had another “incident” that we enjoyed; Andre and I were exploring the market in St. Georges. Wandering between the stalls, he was about 5 meters ahead of me. A group of three Mama’s were sitting in front of their stall. “Hey man, what cha looking for” one called to him. “Nothing” he replied “just looking”! One with a saucy look in her eye and a seductive tone to her voice says “You maybe lookin for a wife? I be a good wife”. We both burst out laughing! I assured them he already had one and he couldn’t handle and more. They enjoyed that!

 The bay we were in, Clarkes Court Bay is quieter with fewer yachts and less marina’s and it takes a little more effort to reach the town. But it’s what we enjoy, however we had heard the place to be for New Year was Prickly Bay. So we raised anchor and sailed round two days before New Year. Prickly Bay is one of the most popular anchorages in Grenada and is packed. We met our friends on Moonwalker and had New Year at “Da Big Fish” restaurant. Live local band was playing, it was great!

Andre had been Hashing in Oz and we discovered there was a New Year’s Day Hash planned. Hash House Harriers is an international club of “Drinkers with a running problem”. We thought New Year’s Day, Party, Short Hash and Beer all the makings of a continuation of the New Year’s Eve party! Boy; were we wrong! It was a B with and ITCH! Two and a half hours later as it was getting dark we got back to the start! So much for a swim and braai! Dehydrated tired and scratched to hell we had finished the hash. It had taken us around the perimeter of the airfield.

We had climbed hills. We had walked over rocky shores and those made of conch shells. We walked through thorn trees and over dunes; over beaches and bitches of hills and every imaginable horrible terrain. If this had been the deciding factor I would never have hashed again! But for my sins and my hubby we hashed the next weekend too! It was hard and wet but beautiful views and this time we took water! What a difference. So much better that I even hashed alone, well with the GHHH group the week Andre went to USA for his annual SIM training. But that is another story!

New shoes have to be drunk out of before you can hash!

No longer a virgin!

We took advantage of being in Prickly Bay and walked around to Grand Anse Beach. It’s a two mile sweep of white-gold sand, with a variety of shops and bars. The main shopping centre of the area is also nearby. The water is clear and warm and we spent the day chilling, or liming as they say here!

We spent a few days at the Prickly Bay anchorage then move back to Clarkes Court. We had booked place on the jetty at Whisper Cove Marina for when Andre left to go to USA for ten days! The owners and most of the other boats at the marina were French. Sitting on the boat listening to the voices I could have been in France! It’s a super marina with a restaurant, shop with good butchery; (they prepare the meat themselves) and a laundry. I took advantage of being alone on the boat and sewed for a week. Sadly not clothes but boat stuff. Wind scoop, a canoe cover, a seat bag for the dinghy and I fine-tuned the dinghy cover to what we wanted!

Andre passed his SIM and is set up for another year of flying. On his return we spent a few days longer and then decided we wanted clean water we could swim in. Clarkes Court Bay has a Rum distillery and the water is brown and yukky! So we moved around to anchor between Port Louis Marina, the new Marina of St. Georges (Grenada’s Capital) and Grand Anse, miles of white sand and clear water!

 

Two miles from our anchorage is the Underwater Sculpture Park. It is the work of sculptor Jason Taylor from England, who has a passion for creating fantastic and unique pieces of work depicting Grenada’s colourful history and folklore and placing them underwater. All of the sculptures are in beautiful clear shallow water easily accessible by divers and snorkelers. The sculptures end up creating artificial reefs, and enhancing the marine environment.

We donned our scuba gear and descended. It was all we had heard, the sculptures are amazing and the coral and growth on them give them life. The anchorage we were on near to the park at Grand Mal bay was so good we decided to stay the night. Lunch and dinner was had at the Sunset View restaurant and it lived up to its name in every way! The sunset was awesome and the food good!

Back to Grand Anse anchorage the next day and we just had to force ourselves to spend a long lazy day on the beach!

We had been waiting for “the right weather” to continue our journey north and finally there was a small gap in the constant prevailing winds. It was time to bid farewell to Grenada’s main island, our destination was Carriacou, the land of reefs! 

Two miles from our anchorage is the Underwater Sculpture Park. It is the work of sculptor Jason Taylor from England, who has a passion for creating fantastic and unique pieces of work depicting Grenada’s colourful history and folklore and placing them underwater. All of the sculptures are in beautiful clear shallow water easily accessible by divers and snorkelers. The sculptures end up creating artificial reefs, and enhancing the marine environment.

We donned our scuba gear and descended. It was all we had heard, the sculptures are amazing and the coral and growth on them give them life. The anchorage we were on near to the park at Grand Mal bay was so good we decided to stay the night. Lunch and dinner was had at the Sunset View restaurant and it lived up to its name in every way! The sunset was awesome and the food good!

Back to Grand Anse anchorage the next day and we just had to force ourselves to spend a long lazy day on the beach!

We had been waiting for “the right weather” to continue our journey north and finally there was a small gap in the constant prevailing winds. It was time to bid farewell to Grenada’s main island, our destination was Carriacou, the land of reefs!