Carriacou to St Lucia – Worst Passage to date!

The Caribbean Christmas North Easterly winds were still beating across the sea and guess where we had to go? Yes directly north east as well. So we set off into wind as if we waited for favourable winds we would still be sitting in Trinidad. We have realized that a sailboat does not go into wind so well, so the trusty diesels were fired up and tally hoe, off we went into the rising sun. Bouncing and slamming over the swell and the chop because somewhere over the horizon they promised us that the calm  waters of the Caribbean with coconut trees and girls in bikinis (or not) would meet us!!!........Yeah!!

My Captain had decided we were going to the windward of Union, Tobago Keys,  Mayreau and Canouan to try any offset the current of 2.5 kts that would carry us west of our destination. We had a constant 2-3 knot current against us but we were at least able to sail up that side. We cut onto the Leeward side of Mustique seeing them in the distance as we passed! We intend to stop at those we are passing on our way back down. We had planned to night stop in Bequia and then pass St Vincent keep going to St. Lucia.

Gin clear water

Bequia

We cut to pass the windward side of Tobago Keys and as we went noticed the leading edge of our jib had come loose and was getting worse. At the same time the area east of the island that was supposed to offer a clear passage had breaking waves as far to the horizon as we could see. We dropped our sails and cut in between the coral reefs; the water is beautiful you see right to the bottom. Gin clear as they say! With me on the bow watching for shallow areas we wound our way through the Keys and then continued to Bequia  and anchored in Admiralty Bay. The sun was just about to set and we had a quick dive to check our anchor was set properly, and then enjoyed a sun-downer on deck.

 

 

The next morning I had my machine out good and early and we dropped the jib for me to repair. Once it was down we saw there was quite a lot of stitching coming loose and I ended up re-sewing virtually all the seams on the leading edge. We had hoped it be finished quickly and set off for St. Lucia but it was not to be. Instead we grabbed our snorkel gear and spent the rest of the afternoon underwater!

When we returned to the boat; who should be anchored behind us, but South African friends, Bruce and Sharon on Ocean Spice! We tried to call them but it seems they had crashed after their trip!

As for St. Vincent: We had decided that with the reputation for crime against yachties and the fact the local authorities seem to have not received the message from their government to “look after yachties as they bring in currency” and instead heard “go after yachties and get their money”. We heard they fine you for not leaving your boat to check in immediately although the official time is 24 hours to check in and they have attitudes of note. Well true or exaggerated we decided there were many more places beautiful places and they were just not worth the risk.

The next morning early we lifted our anchor and set off towards St. Lucia  to pass on the windward side of Saint Vincent!! Initially the winds were as expected, on the nose. The sea lived up to its reputation of swells of 3 – 5 meters and a chop of about 1 meter! So you ride the swell and bounce over the chop and both slam into the bottom of the boat! In addition to this we had a current of between 2 to 3 knots against us! We were traveling at about 5 to 6 knots and only going 3 knots over the ground! Not much fun.

Then about halfway up the island there is a small headland that we needed to sail around to continue our path North to St Lucia! Oh my word, I swear we sailed around the corner and straight over the bubbling cauldron of one of hells pots! The wind continued at about 25 knots BUT the sea and the current went wild. For about an hour the sea was coming at us from every direction. We were free falling over 5 plus meter swells and burying the bow into the trough until at least half the trampoline was under water. Then we would pop up, but the swells were so short and unpredictable, we would bounce right over the next swell and once again free fall into the trough between them. At the same time the swell and chop were also hitting us from the sides! A crazy, mad, cauldron of bubbling seawater. Everything in the boat was bounced off of the shelves; I finally just left it all on the floor.

This went on for about an hour and then calmed a little so at least the swell and chop were coming from one direction. The current had now turned, thank goodness! We were traveling at 4 knots and making 8! Yeah ha!!!  Caribbean here we come!!

Just as the sun was beginning to set we arrived at Laborie, on the Southern coast of St Lucia, there was a channel between the reefs, which were breaking and we were supposed to navigate between them! One look after that crazy passage and we decided we had used up our luck for the day and there was no way we were going to try and negotiate those reefs. So we moved a little further east and anchored off of the beach.

We had heard from Ocean Spice during the day and knew they were following us in. We waited for them to anchor then collapsed into bed for a rolley night!