Thursday, May 26, 2016

Cayo Guillermo

 Leaving Puerto Da Vita we did a few short day hops anchoring at the end of the day. In Cuba you are allowed to anchor I'm some places and they call y on the radio to find out who you are, how many people aboard, here you came from and where you are heading. You are allowed to snorkel around your boat but you are not allowed to use your dinghy or go ashore!

Our overnight stays had us anchored off of Cayo Confites and Cayo Paredon Grande. Cayo Paredon Grande has a yellow and black checkerboard lighthouse and a LONG beach. In the morning (before we learned of not being allowed to go ashore) we dinghyed over to the small slip from which we had been waved to with shouts of 'Holla' when we anchored to see if we could look at the lighthouse and / or walk the beach. A smiling man in brown khaki uniform walked down and greeted us as we neared the shore. We asked permission to look at lighthouse and was the beach. He was very apologetic and explained it was all 'military zone' and we could not! 

We have found our broken Portuguese learned in Brasil works perfectly here, in fact we have either improved since Brasil or our pronounciation is nearer to the Spanish as they understand perfectly. As and soon as we try talk Spanish they try speak English and we get along perfectly. One thing I noticed is if your pronounciation isn't perfect they listen and ask you to repeat till they work out what you are trying to say. Then with a smile they correct your pronounciation and respond. They love practicing English and in many places they greet you in English with 'have a nice day' or the like. 
Rat Catcher in Guillermo

Compared to Puerto de Vita where the Marina is surrounded by local residences and you are not allowed into the resorts in the nearby town at all except into the lobby to use internet, Cayo Guillermo is side by side resort. There we found we were allowed into all the resorts to wander around, use their pool and we could even get dinner. A buffet with a large selection of delicious meals and deserts and INCLUDING drinks of your choice (wine, beer or rum) was CUC10.00 each. That's about US$10.20. We ate there twice after walking the beach, wallowing in and lounging around the pool and using Internet. There is not free internet in Cuba, you buy a card for CUC2 which gives you an hours connection and you can only connect at a hotel. 

Cayo Guillermo is famous for its pink Flamingos we were privileged to see flocks of feeding in the mangrove pools and for being described by one of Cuba most beloved heroes Ernest Hemingway in his novel 'Islands in the Stream'. We had heard of 'Playa Pillar' (Pillar Beach) apparently one of the best in Cuba and we unfolded our bicycles and set out for the 11 km ride up island. En route we saw the pink flamingos and spotted the Dolfinario (Dolphinarium)


The Dolphinariums in Cuba are open aired areas fenced off in the waters of the mangroves. One is allowed to stroll through and see what is on offer without paying if you don't want to have a Dolphin encounter or swim with them. We took a chance and strolled in, they were between shows and we were alone except for the security guard aka Dolphin trainer. Seeing no-one else was around he encouraged us to enter the restricted area. Then peeping up the wooden paths over the water to ensure no one was coming invited us to join him on the dolphin platform. There we got our own private dolphin show. He explained the Dolphins here had all been caught in nets and nursed back to health. It seems very well managed and the career obviously loves his charges. So I was priviledged to be kissed by a Dolphin. We took turns kneeling on the platform as he called the Dolphins up to have their back scratched and get their reward of fish. He laughingly told us if one forgot or refused to give the treat they Dolphins simply refused to do anymore tricks till they were rewarded again. 
Dophinarium entrance
Dancing Dolphins


Playa Pillar was nice. We confess to having seen better beaches but not in Cuba and their pride in their beach is obvious! Everything is carefully controlled. The car guard took charge of our bicycles, they were not allowed in the resort and we walked on wooden raisd paths over the mangroves to the resort and the beach. There we swam in tepid water lazed on diamond-dust fine white sand and watched the other beach goers.




Statues like this all over Cuba different stances




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