Puerto la Vita
Confession is that I was a little apprehensive to arrive in Cuba. Although we were reassured by some, the 'stories' were many and varied. Usually by those who have not yet been here it seems!
I was expecting 'Cuban communist humorless officials'. I was expecting to be boarded and the entire boat searched and dug through. Some stories said any fresh fruit, vegetables and meat would be confiscated. My tiny garden of Catnip, Cat grass and Cilantro would most certainly be removed and or destroyed!
We finally set off from South Side Bay, Ragged Island just off Duncan Town at 1500 hours. We had planned an overnight sail as the stories told of being left waiting for hours, even left anchored overnight off the entrance of the bay as you were not allowed ashore or to interact with anyone until the formalities had been completed.
We had an 'interesting' sail in the true Chinese curse way 'of May you live in interesting times' lol Wind gusting at 25 knots, seas on the port beam had us rolling like a monohull and pitching and yawing at the same time. Slewing down the side of a three meter swell only to be bounced up the next; four to five seconds behind the first.
We started out with one reef in the main and the Genoa. By sunset we were way to far ahead of time and our ETA was to be about 0100! No good we couldn't navigate the shore in the dark and would not be allowed in anyway! We had planned to arrive at about 0800 when their day started! We dropped the main and finally had only a tiny handkerchief of jib up and heading just off the wind to slow us down. As the sun came up we were 5nm off the coast and turned and headed for the entrance. We called into the Guarda Frontera on the VHF, were asked a few questions and told to head into the channel.
We were met by a smiling young man in a small motor boat who beconed and led us to the anchorage. He won my heart by gesturing he had fallen in love with Lulu who was on the foredeck with me watching what he was doing. In the bay he indicated we should drop anchor and then he sped off. When he returned with the Doctor he asked if Lulu maybe had babies as he would like one. Floating cattery now that's a new idea. :)
We decided we both needed a quick shower if the Doctor was on the way. Sweaty, smelly bodies did not seem polite to present to the Doctor for the 'examination' we were expecting. Andre was dressing and I had just soaped up on the sugarscoop, when the dinghy arrived with the white coated Doctor on board. I quickly rinsed dried a little and went to greet him (don't worry we bath in swim suits so he wasn't horrified)
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| Dr. Rolando |
What a nice man, we both greeted him in Spanish and he was very pleased to note we spoke and understood Spanish although we had been told his English was excellent. We explained we "habla pocinto eSpanol" ( we speak on a tiny bit of Spanish) His English is not bad at all and we chatted away. The 'examination' a one page questionnaire of our details and about four questions, have you had headaches, have you had a cold, have you had a temperature. Do you think you are ill or have any disease you could spread? That's it! Oh and he took our temperature with an infrared thermometer. He was a little surprised ours were 'so low' at 35.6 deg. I reminded him we had just had cold showers and he was quite happy! The day was already hot so I guess he expected them to be a little higher. His only other concern was when we had last been in Africa due to the diseases and the recent outbreak of Yellow fever in Angola he said!
That done we chatted and laughed while he waited for his lift back to the marina. He swapped Facebook and emails and asked us not to show the authorities he gave it to us, as they wouldn't like it!? He recommended the best cigars, rum and the best places to change money. He explained that the Carnival was starting in two days and would be right outside his home, that he wouldn't sleep for four days of the carnival and we should not miss it.
With our Q (quarantine) flag down and the Cuba courtesy flag flying, with his permission, he was collected from the boat and the Immigration official dropped off. Another very nice handsome young man named Adil. He too was delighted we could or attempted to speak and understand Spanish. He took great pains to explain that all these procedures were normal in Cuba and we must please not worry. He sat quietly filling in our forms as we docked in Mediteranean style mooring. That means we hooked onto a buoy and reversed to the dock and tied on.
I told him I was concerned about Lulu (whom he had met and fussed over) and the dogs and he put me at ease. He informed me the dogs would now be coming and to take care of her. I popped her into her travel case and onto the helm seat in the shade where she peered curiously at the goings on. The dogs were both Cocker Spaniels and the first one searched for drugs "drogas" and the second one for explosives "bombas". The handlers were very serious not engaging with us at all, well trying not to. The first man obviously was in great pain and I had to ask what was wrong. He told me his knee was hurt and I offered help but was refused with a grateful smile. He had work to do! The dogs are beautiful and so intelligent. His every command was understood and despite what must have been overwhelming cat smells for them they sniffed every corner and found nothing they informed us! All was good!
While this was going on I noticed one of the men snorkeling the bottom of the boat! He too was happy there was nothing suspicious and gave us the nod.
Then Adil gloved up and asked me to accompany him as he searched the boat. Once again apologizing and explaining it was normal in Cuba I must not worry. I said we had no problems he was welcome to check anywhere. He just glanced into most of the cupboards and when I pointed out those he had missed he smiled and said it was fine.
We were told the vet would be there too and when none arrived we thought they had changed their mind. We were exhausted and decided to catch up on some sleep. We had just begun to doze when we heard 'Hola, Hola' (hello) and the Veterinarian and the Agricultural official arrived!
The lady vet was friendly and after checking Lulus papers asked to see her. I was amazed as she turned Lulu onto her back in her arms and she lay there lazily for a few minutes while her tummy was tickled and her mouth examined.
The agricultural official and shy quiet smiling man had a cursory check at our fresh vegetables and my plants and declared them passed!
Our mooring was next to new friends we met in George Town Bahamas, Fabio and Michelle and Sade the Labrador on sailing vessel Delphino. Fabio speaks Spanish and told us when the Doctor was brought back to shore the dog handlers asked him if there were animals aboard our boat. His answer, in Spanish, was "yes a cat, as big as a horse".
The vet was very amused that the two boats with animals were next to each other and a dog and cat were neighbor's.
Janet the Marina manager was very friendly and helpful. We needed to get Pessos (CUC) and we planned to share a taxi with Delphino. This was our introduction to Victor. Most Cuban men we have seen are shortish, between 5'5" and 5'9 and wirey to athletic. Victor must be 6'3" and built like a tank. His taxi is a little lime green Lada. With three of us piled in the back, if it had any suspension we squashed it, and one in the front, he pulls his seat forward to give us some leg room. The result is he drives with his knees up next to the steering wheel, almost plugged into his ears.
Cuba has two currencies. Both are called Pessos but you have CUC (pronounced Cook) which is what is used in the tourist areas and then CUP aka Nacional's (Nationals) which is what the locals use. CUC1 is US$1.09 and CA$1.23. For CUC1.00 you get twenty Nacional's. One thing we found amusing is they have CUC3.00 notes. So the saying 'as strange as a R3.00 ($3.00) note' doesn't apply here.
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| Local Pub. |
That evening we wondered into the streets behind the marina to find a store in a house whom we had heard sometimes sold vegetables and eggs. Delphino needed supplies. The tiny lady we met there did not want to accept their money for the eggs and insisted it was a gift. These amazing people have so little and are so generous! Our stroll took us past the locals bar and we decided to pop in for a beer. Our request for 'Frio Cerveca', was met with shakes of heads. No cold beer only room temperature, which was baby bath warm. We had one anyway and soon attracted the attention of all the 'strange' people in town. The locals were laughing and showing us 'mad' signs (the international rotated finger circle on the side of the head) to indicate those talking to us were not all there. Despite that he sold us mangoes, he ran off to get after making sure we understood we were not to leave till he came back. The mangoes he brought us looked like he had picked them up off the ground but we took them anyway. On our walk back to the marina we were greeted by a man in English who informed us he was the local school teacher. He also told us he had heard we thought the mangoes had been picked up off the ground (news travels fast in the streets), he assured us they were not they were a kind of mango that had black spots on them and were sweet and tasty! They were!
Janet had also arranged a Dentist appointment for André who's tooth had fallen out when he sneezed in Bahamas. That was our destination on day two. Victor once again collected us and with his knees plugged into his ears drove us to Guardalavaca. We were told by Fabio a direct translation of Guardalavaca means 'watch for the cow'!
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| Fabio, Michelle and Alison in Taxi |
The dentist was excellent and in no time had André's tooth glued back in and did he a clean while he was at it. The total cost was CUC20 for the tooth and CUC35 for the clean! Can you imagine the equivalent of about US$55 total for an hours treatment!! Had I known I would have had a check up and clean as well. We had to go to the Pharmacy downstairs to pay which he explained the money went to the government he saw none of it and bring back proof of payment which he had to then sign and stamp. A small note on his desk informed us 'Tips were appreciated and welcomed'. We duly complied.
That evening we returned to the little store as Delphino had organized for more eggs and bread. Once again she was very reluctant to allow them to pay. They settled by 'gifting' her the money! Of course we had to visit the bar again. We had decided that we were all going to try the rum! To our surprise they had cold beers for us. After their effort had had to first have beer! On ordering a rum each we discovered Rum in the bar was free! It was a watered down version but no wonder no one needed cold beer. We managed to pay by buying coke, 50c, to put it with and were gifted with a tot each of undiluted rum, which was not usually free!
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| Victor fills the space. |
There were no 'locos' in the bar that night but young strong men who it seemed had come down to the bar to see the strangers. We had great laughs and rum and headed back to the marina!
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| Victor and his Lada Taxi |
The 'Carnivale' had begun and Victor arrived to collect us at 1630hrs. We were told the best time was about five and we planned to make the most of it. We arrived and looked for the building the Doctor lived in! We were all a little sadened and amazed to see the apartments! They would not have been out of place in a slum anywhere in the world. Run down, old and the surrounds dusty and unkept!
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| Doctors home |
We spotted the Doctor on his balcony and he waved and gestured drinking. He arrived with his lovely wife Marietta and asked if we minded if they joined us! The 'Carnivale' was more of a fête! The dusty square bordered by apartment blocks had been set up with beer and food tents. A few stalls selling 'made in China' hair baubles and other small items. We wandered around watching people and sipping cold beers. The 'amusement park' for the children was a time warp to the 1960's. Old hand operated Ferris wheels and rides.
The Doctor knew of a good restaurant and we set off to find it! He told us that they were normally paid a commission for bringing people there but because we were his friends he had told them to not do that and charge us special prices. We all (six of us) ate delicious fresh cooked fish with vegetables, rice and beans, drank beers and shared a bottle of wine. Then they presented the total bill: CUC26.00.
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| Marietta and Rolando |
We could not believe it. The menu had marked the fish dish at CUC15.00 each! There had to be a mistake! When we queried it we were assured it was correct!
A fond farewell to the good Doctor and his wife saw us back to the marina.
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| Carnival Vendors |
The next morning check out. We were once again searched and boarded by the customs man and the 'Drogas and Bombas' dogs and given the go ahead to leave!
Leaving Puerto Da Vita we did a few short day hops anchoring at the end of the day. In Cuba you are allowed to anchor I'm some places and they call y on the radio to find out who you are, how many people aboard, here you came from and where you are heading. You are allowed to snorkel around your boat but you are not allowed to use your dinghy or go ashore!
Our overnight stays had us anchored off of Cayo Confites and Cayo Paredon Grande. Cayo Paredon Grande has a yellow and black checkerboard lighthouse and a LONG beach. In the morning (before we learned of not being allowed to go ashore) we dinghyed over to the small slip from which we had been waved to with shouts of 'Holla' when we anchored to see if we could look at the lighthouse and / or walk the beach. A smiling man in brown khaki uniform walked down and greeted us as we neared the shore. We asked permission to look at lighthouse and was the beach. He was very apologetic and explained it was all 'military zone' and we could not! 
Compared to Puerto de Vita where the Marina is surrounded by local residences and you are not allowed into the resorts in the nearby town at all except into the lobby to use internet, Cayo Guillermo is side by side resort. There we found we were allowed into all the resorts to wander around, use their pool and we could even get dinner. A buffet with a large selection of delicious meals and deserts and INCLUDING drinks of your choice (wine, beer or rum) was CUC10.00 each. That's about US$10.20. We ate there twice after walking the beach, wallowing in and lounging around the pool and using Internet. There is not free internet in Cuba, you buy a card for CUC2 which gives you an hours connection and you can only connect at a hotel. 
The Dolphinariums in Cuba are open aired areas fenced off in the waters of the mangroves. One is allowed to stroll through and see what is on offer without paying if you don't want to have a Dolphin encounter or swim with them. We took a chance and strolled in, they were between shows and we were alone except for the security guard aka Dolphin trainer. Seeing no-one else was around he encouraged us to enter the restricted area. Then peeping up the wooden paths over the water to ensure no one was coming invited us to join him on the dolphin platform. There we got our own private dolphin show. He explained the Dolphins here had all been caught in nets and nursed back to health. It seems very well managed and the career obviously loves his charges. So I was priviledged to be kissed by a Dolphin. We took turns kneeling on the platform as he called the Dolphins up to have their back scratched and get their reward of fish. He laughingly told us if one forgot or refused to give the treat they Dolphins simply refused to do anymore tricks till they were rewarded again. 
