Dominican Republic

Having been in Haiti I was not sure what to expect from the Dominican Republic. We had a hard, horrible sail, as was expected with the easterlies blowing. We crashed bashed and smashed into the swell and waves as we rounded the Cabo Biata through the channel Canal de la Biata headed for Barahona!

It was dark by the time we had Barahona in sight and anchored ships alongside the channel were rolling to about 30 degrees each side as we passed! We found a spot dropped anchor and hit the sack.

We woke to a gentle swell and little wind what a relief! As we sat drinking coffee in the cockpit we heard someone shouting and whistling from the nearby quay! We assumed the were calling us to check-in and quickly got ready loaded our documents in dry bags and set off for shore. Arriving they introduced themselves as being from Immigration, Customs and the Navy and proceeded to climb aboard the rolling dinghy.

Aboard Rat Catcher they asked if we had anything for them to drink (It was a Sunday) and we offered Cerveza (Beer), which they accepted! They completed the documentation, did a cursory search of the boat. They insisted on looking under the bed, when Andre showed them an engine they were happy and didn’t search further. Just before going back to shore they asked if it was at all possible to give them a tip but assured us it was fine if it was not possible. We explained we had minimal cash and could not! No problem! We had especially bought small bottles of Rum in Bahamas for this situation and offered them a bottle. They were delighted! We had friends for life.

Diesel refill

Fernando and Captain

They also offered the services of Fernando, the local go-to guy for tourists who will walk with you, translate and show you where things are. We declined with respect and they laughed saying they understand because Fernando wanted money and we didn’t have it.

Ashore we wandered into the town looking for a ‘Supermarkado’ (supermarket) to stock up on some fresh greens. Everyone was friendly and super helpful and the prices were fantastic compared to Bahamas!

We discovered Restaurant D’Lina. Great food, free Internet and LARGE beers at $1. Who can complain about that!

Barahona also boasts Lake Enriquillo, the largest lake in the Caribbean covering about 265 square kilometres. It is also the lowest point in the Caribbean being 40 meters below sea level! The high salt content created a seemingly barren environment inhospitable to humans but is ideal for crocodiles, iguanas and pink Flamingos.

Two days here and the next weather window appeared and we were off! Salinas our destination! Not wanting to enter Salinas at night we decided to make a stop at Palmar da Ocoa! What a delight. A quiet beach edged with moderate properties. In shelter from the swell and seas it was great to spend the night.

The next morning saw us sailing into Salinas.

Las Salinas has the dubious reputation of having a number of children in the village with a rare 5-alpha-reductase deficiency. Although having a Y-chromosome and male internal organs, at birth they tend to appear externally female and are raised as girls. Around puberty, the onset of male hormones causes virilization and their actual sex becomes apparent. At this point, they switch genders and are raised as boys. This is a common enough occurrence that it does not cause much concern among the townspeople, who are accustomed to it. These boys are called "guevedoces" from a combined slang form meaning "eggs (testes) at twelve"

Las Salinas is one of the most important salt mining centers in the Dominican Republic, interesting wonder if the two are linked in any strange way! Salinas is made up of salt flats and apparently the most extensive sand dunes in the Caribbean.

We loved the tiny town of Salinas. The people were friendly and we found the best restaurant ever WITH free wifi. Restaurant Bahia De Los Pirates! (Pirates Bay Restaurant)

It was obvious Matthew had been through here with sunken yachts and more than one with its jib shredded, like bunting! The owner had removed the mainsail but obviously thinking a furled jib was safe had left it behind. We not sure if he has seen it yet but its trashed!

 

Next stop Casa de Campino! You have probably read about our experience in “Drama at Sea”. Its regretful that a handful of super rich, it seems American, land owners can manipulate the local in such a way they will not even follow the international law of safe harbor!

Heading back to check out today they tried the same story. We could check out now (yesterday it wasn’t a checkout site) but had to leave afterwards. I was not having it! Ranting about rich owners forcing us out into unsafe seas AGAIN, with trembling lips and shaking voice the poor manager must have said to the owners, A crazy unstable woman is in my office help! So we were allowed to stay in anchor for the night! Woman 1 ; rich owners 0. We are so tempted to go park a hot turd on their nice beach before we leave. lol