America - 11 004 miles down the line

11004 miles later and yep America is just where Columbus or whoever found it! Even who discovered America is controversial.

First view of America

We left Bimini, our last stop in Bahamas and set sail for West Palm Beach. Actually motored on one engine, there was no wind but with the current behind us we were still doing 7 knots.

Ten hours later we turned into West Palm Beach and into the Atlantic Inter coastal Waterway. We anchored just south of Peanut Island and Palm Beach. We had been told you had to visit Customs and Immigration the minute you arrived so we were soon on our way over to the Riviera Beach club to tie up the dinghy and do customs. We discovered customs was closed. We asked a Policeman parked at the club if he knew what we should do but he was very busy having a conversation on his cell phone and said he know nothing about it and it wasn't his jurisdiction so he couldn't help us, then went back to his call. After trying everything we approached him again, he was still on his cell phone and we asked if he could call customs and ask what we should do, he said he wouldn't he was busy!  Need I say more?

We eventually found the security manager of the club and explained our problem and that we did not have a local phone to call anyone. He was very kind he called them on his cell so we could check in. We just had to go back to the customs in the morning for a stamp.

For some reason only Zuma would know, a South African registered vessel cannot get a cruising permit in USA. So, while other countries check in and then can cuise the whole USE, we have to check in at every main port which has a customs. Every time it means finding a customs office, sometimes at the local airport, either by bike, taxi, dinghy or foot. Then all the diplomatic bullshit to pass the bureaucratic red tape. Then it costs us $37 at each check in and a repear to check out and another $37. I woul have thought Barack and Jacob would be big mates by now and we could go where we please.

So we are officially in America! 

The next day we checked in in person and set off on our bikes to explore. We headed for Palm Beach Island and were busy trying to find a geocache in a tree when this lady kept going past back and forward. Eventually she said we must really love trees we been there so long. We got chatting and discovered she was an estate agent on the island. She said she was only working in the afternoon and insisted on taking us on a guided tour. It was very interesting, showing us different properties, from the outside and telling us who owned them; Yep the rich and famous! 

92 million cheap house!

One property she said had had a original old house on it. A new owner bought it tore it down and built the current property, he had no sooner finished building when he ran into financial difficulties! The property was bought 'at a steal' on auction by Donald Trump for ... Wait for it..... 42 million dollars. He re-painted it, a cream color, and sold it for ....... 92 million dollars! I wouldn't even mind the 10% tip on the sale :) 

As they say money makes money!

Rum Bucket

André had been to West Palm Beach before and a visit to 'the Rum bar' was a must. For $10 you eat as much roast pig as you like and $10 for a Rum bucket. It is literally in a plastic bucket holding about 500 ml. In it is 5 different types of Rum, fruit juice and ice. We decided the buckets would work well for Rum nights on Rat Catcher. so we asked our waitress if it was possible to get another 4 buckets, she looked quite hesitant but said yes. Andre said in fact can she make it 6. She was gob-smacked but nodded uncertainly and said if that's what we wanted. Then we realized she thought we were asking for 6 more FULL rum buckets for the 2 of us. I think she could picture herself pouring us out of there.


The time had come to continue our journey North. We intend to follow the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway (AICW) for some distance to experience it and see a different view to wide open seas.

The ICW is a 4800 km inland waterway along the Atlantic and Gulf coast of America. Sections consist of natural inlets, saltwater rivers, bays and sounds. In other sections are artificial canals and locks. You can follow the ICW from Miami, South Florida all the way to almost in New York. If your mast height is less than 65 foot you never have to go out to sea. 

There are many bridges connecting the islands to the mainland. Some are fixed with a maximum clearance height of 64 - 68 foot. Our mast height is 60 foot, so we have to watch the tide as we go under some. Other bridges open at fixed times and some open on request. You call the bridge-keeper on the VHF radio and ask, so you get closer he stops traffic and lifts the bridge for us to pass through. 

The first few passes were quite daunting. Looking up the mast as we pass underneath it appears we are sure to hit it and we both hold our breaths until we get out the other side. 

 One thing the water in the ICW is this deep brown colour, quite a disappointment. At our first anchorage we snorkeled, you can almost see your outstretched hand. We decided it is perfect because if this water was as clear as the sea and the sand white instead of a brownish mud,  it would be overrun paradise. Calm waters meandering between tree covered islands, imagine if you could also see the rich life beneath it?

The bird life here is abundant, we have never seen so many different waders. My parents and brother, keen twitchers are often on our mind, they would love it. Dolphin play in the shallows heading and catching fish, they often make a short detour to check what we are doing and swim off again. Groups of Mantee swim gracefully by; their huge bulk weightless in the water. It is our dream to swim with these gentle giants. Fish jump and splash and it seems fishing is the main past time here in Florida. 

We took a mooring ball at Vera Beach Marina. What a wonderful place. The marina is clean and efficient. There are free busses to town or to the beach every couple of hours. One direction to the shops to stock up and then a day at the beach. We had met up with Khaya Moya again and headed to the beach front for hamburger dinner. When in America :)

Snow crab legs

Cocoa Beach was our next stop. Established in 1925 the quaint little town has maintained the architecture and the old buildings are full of modern boutiques, restaurants and speciality shops. We wandered around and found a roadside eatery next to the highway that appeared to be frequented by the local 'red necks'. We had to experience it an joined them for a dinner of Snow Crab legs and beer. We enjoyed watching bikers and their 'chicks' ride up and the locals drop in for end of day refreshments.

Arthur

Tropical Storm Arthur was heading up the east coast about 60 miles offshore. We checked our insurance cover and found we had to be either out at sea, tied up in a marina, on the hard with hurricane tie downs or tied up in the mangroves to be covered. Tied up in a marina was most appealing and we headed for Cape Canaveral just to be safe. 

The Canaveral lock we had to pass through to get to the marina was an experience. What was amazing was outside the lock before it opened there was a few dolphins and some Manatees waiting outside the lock gate. As soon as it opened they swam into the lock and then waited at the outgoing gate for it to open. As soon as it opened they swam out, like it was all operated just for them! Amazing how they learn to navigate man made obstructions to get were they want to go We were a little too busy to truly sit and enjoy them but watching them as we worked was wonderful. We had to deal with a 35kt cross wind blowing us onto the starboard side and pinning us there. When the lock opened we had to move fast and the only way we could do it was to reverse the boat off and then out. The lock master must have thought these Africans are crazy!

A few days in Canaveral as the storm passed. All we got were some good rains and a little wind, thank goodness. From there we decided to head out to sea and take a slow sail up to our next stop St Augustine.