Turks and Caicos

The time had come to leave Puerto Rico. We prepared ourselves for the 54 hour sail and set off. Although the seas were choppy we were able to fly spinnakers during the day dropping them only when the squalls caught up! One caught us unaware and the 25 knot gust tripped the emergency line spilling the wind and allowing us to douse it till the squall had passed.

The trip took us past the deepest point in the Atlantic Ocean. The average depth in the Atlantic is 3,339 meters. The deepest point in the Puerto Rico trench known as Milwaukee Deep is 8,380 meters.

This is the kind of space we prefer beneath our keel! But it was to change!

Sandy Cay

After our 54 hours we were grateful to duck in behind Big Sand Cay. The name is appropriate little more than a deserted sand dune in the middle of the ocean we had reached paradise! Tucked in the calm waters behind the island, our peace did not last long, as the sun started to set we were hit with a storm of note. The sea boiled itself into a frenzy and we were surfing two meter swell bouncing on our anchor. The planned evening on Alley Cat was cancelled and we all turned in early. It was disorientating to wake the next morning to absolute silence and stillness. Where was I? Nothing moved, not a breeze stirred. We peeped out to Paradise.

Dinner

It wasn't long before we were in the water exploring. Andre got us crayfish and fish and our dinner menu was set! Around mid day we lifted anchor and headed for Big Fish Cay!

There we walked over the island to the now defunct lighthouse lying on its side. An Osprey had claimed it as it's home and built a huge nest which it sat on; regally watching the interlopers, us! Back in the water we swam with huge Spotted Eagle Ray and every colour and shape of fish you can imagine. Stunning. 

Big Fish

Having said we prefer some depth under our keel the next two days of our trip took us across the Caicos Bank. The average depth was 1.5 meters. At all times one of us was on the bow watching for 'bommies'; heads of rock and coral just waiting for an unsuspecting mariner to impale their boat. 

This is where we finally understood the definition of 'Gin Clear' water! Water so clear it's almost invisible making you feel as if you are suspended in nothing above the floor rather than floating! The huge star fish on the bottom like magical stepping stones along our path!

We are sailing look how shall
how and clear the water is.

The end of day one we chose a spot and dropped anchor, in the middle of nowhere. Drifting above our anchorage watched for the green flash as the sun set.

At 0700 Andre's call of 'Dolphin' had us pulling on snorkel gear and slipping into the water. The Dolphin wanted to play, they swam to within about 5 meters from us and slowly circled us, then turned and swam away watching us over their shoulders! When they saw we were following they would speed up with us trying desperately to keep them in sight. When they realized we were falling behind they would turn and swim back to us again as if to say 'come on, come play'. Then off again circling round and round us and the boats. This carried on for about an hour before they tired of their slow play mates and with a last look back swam off. Incredible, there are not enough words to explain the feeling of swimming and playing with wild dolphin.

 

Providenciales, or 'Provo' is the largest Island on Turks and Caicos was our next stop to check in to the country. South Side Marina was our destination. What a great place. Anchored just out of the Harbour in about two meters of water we Dinghied ashore and the customs and immigration people were called. Here, unlike other countries they come to us. Marsha the customs official was wonderful, great sense of humour interesting and efficient. What a pleasure!

South Side Marina anchorage

We used the marina facilities to catch up on laundry, wifi and were lucky to catch cruisers evening happy hour! Our timing was perfect as the following night was their weekly Big Fish Fry! In the town of Provo they had stalls of food and craft and music and dancing we joined in. It was also the Miss Provo finalists evening to strut the stage. 

This little guy tucked in to be included in the photo

A great end to our stay in Turks and Caicos. We stopped at Sapodilla Bay and West Caicos before heading for Mayaguana the first Island in Bahamas! 

Off West Caicos we donned our scuba gear and descended. As we swam down the wall who should come in to greet us but a large Black tip Reef Shark. He swam lazily by watching us watching him. Obviously the word was out as soon there were four or five shark patrolling the wall. Fantastic.