Saturday, August 2, 2014

Geocaches and Reggae Sundays

So THIS is America :)
 Read the T. Shirt

We decided Sunday was Geocach day. There are thousands here. I downloaded a short round trip from where we are over the bridge of Lions along the beach and back on the 312 bridge. In that short one hour cycle round trip there are more than 30 Geocaches. We might just have to try set a record one day and see how many we can do in a day.

Anyway we set off through the nearby area of Lincolnville. This is one of the older areas in St Augustine and the small 'cottages' used to be slave accommodation. We were warned to beware after dark as there is some drug problems, but cycling through in the middle of the day was intiguing. Some homes are run down and dilapidated and other look newly built and much bigger than the rest.

That's one of the things we enjoy most about Geocaching, we discover sights and areas we may never have found. So eight caches later we were over the Bridge of Lions and heading for our ninth when we saw many people heading in the same direction. Where were they all going? We had to follow! 

The road led us to 'The Conch House' (to our friends on the other side of the world, here they see Conch and say Konk....... Don't ask we have no idea, but when in Rome, or USA in this case...). Then we saw it was 'Reggae Sunday', on a floating dock off of the Conch house Restaurant a band plays reggae between 1500 to 1900. We decided Geocaching could wait, Reggae Sunday here we come!!

They have a very strict age restriction and warn you WILL be asked for ID. I was heartbroken they didn't feel the need to check mine :) hahaha. 

Reggae Sunday is people watching at it best. There is every age, every color, every race, every sex and every idea in the house! One lady about our age had her Belly Dancing
outfit on and was rustling those coins up against a different guy every change of dance. She even had a try with a guy we called space age Bob. We have no idea what planet he thought he was on but he looked more like was trying to put Jefferson Airplane Starship into dance moves than reggae beat. She tried very hard to gaze into his eyes as she shimmied her hips to the reggae music, eventually i think she was getting sea sick trying to follow his rolling eyeballs as he danced and she gave up turned her back and stared mimicking his airplane moves. Not even that worked and she eventually headed off for green pastures.


Then Mr. Red or as Andre named him 'Julius' arrived in his color coded best. A huge gentle giant he appeared to be smiling happily at anyone and everyone. Later in the afternoon he had built up enough dutch or maybe Reggae courage and headed for the whit girls. They loved it he bent them over went into overdrive, and as a friend said after a night at the Trinidad Carnival, 'she had a blackman attached to her bottom'.

Gogo Grey hair looked like she had just walked out of the nearby church straight into Reggae Sunday! She was bopping away taking all the shy gurls under her wing and encouraging them to dance with her. She was an attraction young men and women gathered round her protecting her until her legs finally gave way and she sank gracefully onto the floor. Her young frinds quickly rallied, heaved her to her feet and supported her out. Sadly one young lady assisting her never returned because I was going to ask for a picture. She was as dark as chocolate and had eyes (contacts I guess) of royal blue. A pretty incredible vision.(For my non South African readers, a Gogo is a Granny)

Accross the jetty we spotted a big black man, in his very smart pink shirt, very well dressed. He was sporting the biggest thickest cigar we have ever seen. I had to ask for a picture.
 He was quite happy to oblige and while we were busy one of his companions asked me if I knew who I was talking to?
Me: no sorry
Him: He's the Dom.
Me: thats nice (being obtuse) hello Dom.
HIm: NO NO NO THE Dom.
Me: shrug my shoulders, sorry??
Him: No, have you not heard of xxxyyyzzz furniture?
Me: No sorry
HIm: its him hes the owner he is a few billion strong.
Me: Congratulations, I am honored to meet you.
Dom: Gives a half smile. he is not stupid this one.
Him: Are you sure you dont know xxxyyyzz furniture.
Me: NO we live on a boat we dont buy furniture.
Him: Where you from?
Me: Acutally we probably the only REAL Africans here.
Him: Why my people came from Africa.
Me: Yes but we were born and bred there.
Dom: So you from Soweto?
Me: No Khayalitsha actually. :) :) (I couldnt resist it )
Dom: Smiles and nods, like he knows where Khayalitsha is
Him: asks to take a picture with me
We oblige and then leave. Fame at last :)

Well I googled Dom and found Dom Mebeli of NY furniture. No pictures or anything but the name fits, maybe!!  :)

People watching at its best. :) Enjoy the sights.



 








Monday, July 28, 2014

America - 11 004 miles down the line

11004 miles later and yep America is just where Columbus or whoever found it! Even who discovered America is controversial.
First view of America

We left Bimini, our last stop in Bahamas and set sail for West Palm Beach. Actually motored on one engine, there was no wind but with the current behind us we were still doing 7 knots.

Ten hours later we turned into West Palm Beach and into the Atlantic Inter coastal Waterway. We anchored just south of Peanut Island and Palm Beach. We had been told you had to visit Customs and Immigration the minute you arrived so we were soon on our way over to the Riviera Beach club to tie up the dinghy and do customs. We discovered customs was closed. We asked a Policeman parked at the club if he knew what we should do but he was very busy having a conversation on his cell phone and said he know nothing about it and it wasn't his jurisdiction so he couldn't help us, then went back to his call. After trying everything we approached him again, he was still on his cell phone and we asked if he could call customs and ask what we should do, he said he wouldn't he was busy!  Need I say more?

We eventually found the security manager of the club and explained our problem and that we did not have a local phone to call anyone. He was very kind he called them on his cell so we could check in. We just had to go back to the customs in the morning for a stamp.

For some reason only Zuma would know, a South African registered vessel cannot get a cruising permit in USA. So, while other countries check in and then can cuise the whole USE, we have to check in at every main port which has a customs. Every time it means finding a customs office, sometimes at the local airport, either by bike, taxi, dinghy or foot. Then all the diplomatic bullshit to pass the bureaucratic red tape. Then it costs us $37 at each check in and a repear to check out and another $37. I woul have thought Barack and Jacob would be big mates by now and we could go where we please.

So we are officially in America! 

The next day we checked in in person and set off on our bikes to explore. We headed for Palm Beach Island and were busy trying to find a geocache in a tree when this lady kept going past back and forward. Eventually she said we must really love trees we been there so long. We got chatting and discovered she was an estate agent on the island. She said she was only working in the afternoon and insisted on taking us on a guided tour. It was very interesting, showing us different properties, from the outside and telling us who owned them; Yep the rich and famous! 

92 million cheap house!
One property she said had had a original old house on it. A new owner bought it tore it down and built the current property, he had no sooner finished building when he ran into financial difficulties! The property was bought 'at a steal' on auction by Donald Trump for ... Wait for it..... 42 million dollars. He re-painted it, a cream color, and sold it for ....... 92 million dollars! I wouldn't even mind the 10% tip on the sale :) 

As they say money makes money!


Rum Bucket
André had been to West Palm Beach before and a visit to 'the Rum bar' was a must. For $10 you eat as much roast pig as you like and $10 for a Rum bucket. It is literally in a plastic bucket holding about 500 ml. In it is 5 different types of Rum, fruit juice and ice. We decided the buckets would work well for Rum nights on Rat Catcher. so we asked our waitress if it was possible to get another 4 buckets, she looked quite hesitant but said yes. Andre said in fact can she make it 6. She was gob-smacked but nodded uncertainly and said if that's what we wanted. Then we realized she thought we were asking for 6 more FULL rum buckets for the 2 of us. I think she could picture herself pouring us out of there.


The time had come to continue our journey North. We intend to follow the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway (AICW) for some distance to experience it and see a different view to wide open seas.
The ICW is a 4800 km inland waterway along the Atlantic and Gulf coast of America. Sections consist of natural inlets, saltwater rivers, bays and sounds. In other sections are artificial canals and locks. You can follow the ICW from Miami, South Florida all the way to almost in New York. If your mast height is less than 65 foot you never have to go out to sea. 
There are many bridges connecting the islands to the mainland. Some are fixed with a maximum clearance height of 64 - 68 foot. Our mast height is 60 foot, so we have to watch the tide as we go under some. Other bridges open at fixed times and some open on request. You call the bridge-keeper on the VHF radio and ask, so you get closer he stops traffic and lifts the bridge for us to pass through. 
The first few passes were quite daunting. Looking up the mast as we pass underneath it appears we are sure to hit it and we both hold our breaths until we get out the other side. 
 One thing the water in the ICW is this deep brown colour, quite a disappointment. At our first anchorage we snorkeled, you can almost see your outstretched hand. We decided it is perfect because if this water was as clear as the sea and the sand white instead of a brownish mud,  it would be overrun paradise. Calm waters meandering between tree covered islands, imagine if you could also see the rich life beneath it?

The bird life here is abundant, we have never seen so many different waders. My parents and brother, keen twitchers are often on our mind, they would love it. Dolphin play in the shallows heading and catching fish, they often make a short detour to check what we are doing and swim off again. Groups of Mantee swim gracefully by; their huge bulk weightless in the water. It is our dream to swim with these gentle giants. Fish jump and splash and it seems fishing is the main past time here in Florida. 



We took a mooring ball at Vera Beach Marina. What a wonderful place. The marina is clean and efficient. There are free busses to town or to the beach every couple of hours. One direction to the shops to stock up and then a day at the beach. We had met up with Khaya Moya again and headed to the beach front for hamburger dinner. When in America :)
Snow crab legs











Cocoa Beach was our next stop. Established in 1925 the quaint little town has maintained the architecture and the old buildings are full of modern boutiques, restaurants and speciality shops. We wandered around and found a roadside eatery next to the highway that appeared to be frequented by the local 'red necks'. We had to experience it an joined them for a dinner of Snow Crab legs and beer. We enjoyed watching bikers and their 'chicks' ride up and the locals drop in for end of day refreshments.
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Arthur

Tropical Storm Arthur was heading up the east coast about 60 miles offshore. We checked our insurance cover and found we had to be either out at sea, tied up in a marina, on the hard with hurricane tie downs or tied up in the mangroves to be covered. Tied up in a marina was most appealing and we headed for Cape Canaveral just to be safe. 
The Canaveral lock we had to pass through to get to the marina was an experience. What was amazing was outside the lock before it opened there was a few dolphins and some Manatees waiting outside the lock gate. As soon as it opened they swam into the lock and then waited at the outgoing gate for it to open. As soon as it opened they swam out, like it was all operated just for them! Amazing how they learn to navigate man made obstructions to get were they want to go We were a little too busy to truly sit and enjoy them but watching them as we worked was wonderful. We had to deal with a 35kt cross wind blowing us onto the starboard side and pinning us there. When the lock opened we had to move fast and the only way we could do it was to reverse the boat off and then out. The lock master must have thought these Africans are crazy!
A few days in Canaveral as the storm passed. All we got were some good rains and a little wind, thank goodness. From there we decided to head out to sea and take a slow sail up to our next stop St Augustine.

Wednesday, July 2, 2014

Gun Cay - Honeymoon Harbor - Squalls and Sting Rays

We arrived at Gun Cay as the sun was going down. With visibility not being great we decided to anchor on the windward side for the night instead of risking hitting a bommie. It was quiet and peaceful with just a gentle roll; until midnight. All hell broke loose. A squall hit us from the sea driving us back toward the rocky beach. We were dragging. Winds of 25 plus knots beating against us. We didn't want to raise anchor and move in the dark so we started the engines and held the boat in position into the wind. It battered us for about an hour then as fast as it started it blew over and was gone.

Back to bed and awoke to a wind free morning on a mill pond of water.

We moved the boat around between the reef into 'Honeymoon Harbor'. We have no idea where it got the name but it should be named sting ray harbor. We headed over for a walk on the beach and noticed the people in the water were surrounded by sting rays and were feeding them. We watched for a while and never one to be shy asked them for a piece of their calamari to feed and get a photo. They were very nice and offered us a handful.








You take a piece trap it in your palm with your thumb and hold it under the water. As you feel the mouth you quickly move your thumb out the way so they can suck the piece up from your palm. Occasionally you miss and get a nibble on your thumb or the base of your thumb. It feels like hard gums biting you and they quickly let go when they realize it's not fish. But once you have some food they are all over you. It's the most amazing feeling their soft slippery wings sliding up your leg or over your arm. I was kneeling and they passed between my legs with a wing against each thigh. 
Andre was stooped in the water and one went right up onto his back and over his head looking for food. He says it felt strange you can feel their toothless gums nibbling on your skin.

Incredible experience, we love it when the wild life interacts with us. 

Wednesday, June 18, 2014

Paradise Island - Lost City of Atlantis

We could not visit the Bahamas and not 'find' the Lost City. Our countryman Sol has outdone himself. This place is quite amazing.


The attractions being the aquariums, there are apparently seven and the fun slides. 

We are not sure we found all the aquariums. Under the buildings, through tunnels and suddenly you are faced with a huge tank with HUGE fish. Pompano's, sting rays, eagle rays, are some of the larger ones. Then of course a multitude of smaller reef fish. 

Then there are dedicated tanks. One full of huge Sword fish, one of giant Grouper looking like they have been there since the dinosaur era. The beautiful spotted Eagle Ray glide effortlessly through the water. 

Then of course the predator tank, holding two to three meter Reef and Nurse Shark. Many of them have wounds and scars. Apparently this is a sign of a healthy tank as it means they are following natural instinct to vie for food. 
Giant Grouper

Between the buildings are pools of different fish, many of which have been bred in the park. There are pools of Cow nosed rays, turtle, reef shark nursery and sting rays, to name a few. 
 The buildings hold exclusive dining and stores. Handcrafted jewelry, flawless diamonds, Colombian emeralds, Rolex, Gucci, Versace and Salvatore Ferragamo bags and wallets. This gives you a small idea of the type of money that frequents the hotels. 

As you can imagine although we enjoyed window shopping after playing in the pools and drooling on some of the merchandise this was not one the main attractions for us.

Other than the aquariums we reverted to crazy teenagers and hit the slide park. The guys could not convince us to slide the first one with them! The Drop; a virtually vertical slide of about 50 meters into a small pool. Even some of the most rugged men we saw coming down screamed like girls as they went over  the drop through the predator tank. It is so fast one doesn't even notice you are in a transparent tube falling through the shark tank, if you could just keep your eyes open you would see the sharks watching as you fly by. Our guys reached the bottom with grins from ear to ear chuckling and ran to do a second slide. Was it perhaps an evil glint we saw in their eye when they convinced us to do he next slide with them?

With racing heart and breathless with nerves we followed them up, The Serpent Slide! This one drops, levels out and drops again into a pool. At the top you can't see what is coming, so with bated breath you sit yourself down on the flat surface and wait for the attendant to say 'GO'. It probably just as well or we would never have done it. The 'rules'; cross your legs , cross your arms, lie flat and GO GO GO!!!

Andre had warned me, that if I didn't want a full nasal washout to also hold my nose. I did so and I closed my eyes, I did not want to see what was coming. The first drop ripped and involuntary scream from me that would have won an Oscar in a low budget horror movie. The second drop a slightly shorter scream that was cut off by the planing across the top of the end pool. Quick adjustments to wrench free your bikini bottoms that were now well hidden in the cracks!! I made it!!!

Next on the agenda was 'The Abyss' need I say more? You first climb stairs to the top of a tall tall tower, standing in rows of giggling girls and boys trying to look macho! Trying to breath your racing heart to a more normal rate as butterflies become vultures swooping around in your belly! This ride you can't see from outside at all. The route begins and ends in the tower. The entrance at the top is a dark tube about a meter diameter. All you hear as people before you launch themselves into the darkness is petrified screams that seem to go on the whole ride. Did we really want to do this? Closing eyes tight, holding my nose and my breath telling myself I would NOT SCCCREAAMMMMMM. Oops no luck as I pitched into the darkness and fell seemingly endlessly down the first slide a scream was torn from me. Water rushing in your face, I was too scared to open my eyes and too scared to breath, I did not think I could hold on any longer when I burst into the end pool in a softly lit 'cave' the the laughing faces of Andre and the ones who went before me. This WAS fun, I think!

Our favorite ride was 'The Surge'. This is done in tubes. We took a double one. You sit in it and try keep your bum from hitting the floor below and you 'fall' down waterfalls, race over rapids and float across ponds. It was wonderful fun. we did two rounds of the route which take about an hour. Conveyor belts pull you on the tubes up to higher levels and you start again.