Sunday, June 17, 2012

Tortola – British Virgin Islands - Southern Blue


27th May 2012 – 3rd June 2012
Southern Blue delivery

The trip from St. Maarten to Tortola, BVI’s was one of the smoothest passages we have had since we entered the Caribbean, mostly because we flew over on Liat airways. Tallies and Jeanne from Southern Blue were there to meet us but had almost given up hope we had arrived we took so long to get through customs. The reason was one of the officials had either got up on the wrong side of the bed or was new but he was checking every “i” was dotted and T crossed and sending every passenger to be searched. Luckily by the time we got to the front of the queue the second official was free and she assisted us with smiles and laughs and no hassles at all.  I breathed a sigh of relief; my captain is not the best at hiding his irritation at incompetence and/or bloody mindedness, while I try gamely to kiss ass to just get us through with the least amount of headache.
Tallies and Jeanne


It was great to see our friends again and a short walk brought us to Trellis Bay where Southern Blue was anchored. They had been anchored in the Bay for two weeks having repairs done after being struck by lightning which blew just about every electrical component on the boat. Finally they had everything fixed and had just had an offer on the boat (she is for sale) which they had accepted. We had agreed to sail with them for two days before taking Southern Blue back to St Maarten to be sold. At this stage it seemed we would be flying back again, what a pleasure.

Tallies and Jeanne are on their way back to South Africa after a 6 month sabbatical sailing the Caribbean.

That afternoon we took the local ferry to Scrub Island. A private resort has been built here with no expenses spared. What is fantastic is they make visitors welcome and we were free to walk around the island exploring. We met the manager at their “One Shoe Beach Bar” who is also a South African. All over the Caribbean we find one of a pair of shoes on the beach and in the water, “One Shoe Bar” has taken a few and nailed them to the bar posts.


We waited for the seller and Tallies to sign off on the contract then we set sail for Joost Van Dyke Island. On the way we stopped to fill up with Diesel and water. The gas station on a floating dock has an old fashioned red phone box which is in working order. We couldn't resist taking pics!





The island is supposedly named after the Dutch privateer, Joost van Dyke. It is also known as the birthplace of Dr. John Lettsom who was born into a Quaker community then went to England to study medicine. There he founded the London Medical Society and was the founding member of the Royal Humane Society. A philanthropist, abolitionist and humourist he wrote the following ditty:

                                I, John Lettsom
                                Blisters, bleeds and sweats ém
                                If, after that, they please to die,
                                I, John, lets ém
Foxys Bar


We anchored in Great Bay, the home of Foxy’s Bay. It has been around for over 40 years and hosts an annual wooden boat race in May. Sadly we missed the race.
We discovered Corsairs Bar and Restaurant and loved the atmosphere so stopped for a sun downer. There we sampled their “Dark and Stormy” a Rum and Ginger Beer mix. There we stayed for the rest of the evening, smoking cigars and feasted on their delicious chicken wings in barbeque sauce. A fitting hello and goodbye party with our friends from Southern Blue; with whom we have had so much fun.




We swear nothing happened!
Jeanne being corrupted!




 The next morning took us to Sea Cow Bay where we anchored and took the dinghy across to Nanny Cay. We had to meet Brian the yacht broker there and sign off some final arrangements for Southern Blue to be hauled out for inspection by a surveyor to finalise the sale. Of course being a little boat crazy we also took the opportunity to look at some of the boats available, let’s just say Rat Catcher rules.
The following morning Tallies and Jeanne were taking the ferry to St. Thomas where they would catch a flight to USA, Florida and then to Cuba. Jeanne promised to smoke a Cuban cigar for Andre. They were leaving from Sopers Hole so we moved there for the night. It was a sad goodbye, for them they were leaving their boat for the last time and we were sad to see them go.

We decided we would go and explore Road Town and motored to the harbour. It was so full we couldn’t find any space to anchor safely so eventually gave up. Nearby Brandywine Bay had a nice sound so dropped anchor there. We were the only boat anchored in a pretty bay with townhouses on one side overhanging the sea the entire bay edged in white beach. I was getting water withdrawal so went for a snorkel. The sea grass bottom is home to the Conch and there were lots of them all over, as well as a huge hermit crab who had made his home in an abandoned Conch shell.
Sun downers on deck and a simple dinner and we slept like babies.
The next day was D-Day for the boat; she was to be hauled out of the water at Nanny Cay to be inspected by a marine surveyor. Sadly it didn’t get that far, he found one or two known problems that Leopards suffer from and the sale fell through. So a change of plans instead of flying back we were once again sailing her back to St. Maarten.
The weather wouldn’t be right for a few days so we took her over to Norman Island and into the Bight. Norman Island is one of the Islands together with Salt, Peter, Cooper and Ginger that form the perimeter of Sir Frances Drake Channel. It is often referred to by locals as “Treasure Island” and is rife with stories of buried Pirate treasure. A letter dated 1750 stated, “Recovery of the treasure from Nuestra Senora buried at Norman Island, comprised 450 000 dollars, plate, cochineal, indigo and tobacco, much dug up by local Tortolians”. Sadly we didn’t stumble across any of the buried treasure.
The Caves you can swim deep into.
We took the dinghy to Treasure Point, an amazing dive site, the water was beautifully clear and the highlight is swimming into huge caves carved deep into the rocks by the sea action. Unfortunately we didn’t have a dive torch with us but we swam in until we couldn’t see our hand in front of our face then turned and swam back to the light of the entrance. We will definitely be back next year to explore deeper into the caves. Would love to see what sea creatures live in the dark! Just maybe we find some treasure there.
Our next stop for the night was Manchioneel Bay on Cooper Island. We tried to anchor but were having problems with the windlass and the wind was pushing us all over, so we ended up taking a buoy. A walk ashore at the resort, explored their Boutique; without buying; in Euro’s for us Rand people it’s too expensive.
We decided we would leave the next afternoon so that we got to Simpson Bay in time for the 11h30 bridge opening to do so we would have to leave at about 3PM so we had one more day to explore. 
We lifted anchor early from Cooper Island and made our way to Virgin Gorda and “The Baths”. They are located on the southwest tip of the Island and are an incredible formation of huge granite boulders. The sea washes in between the rocks making rock pools where shafts of light play on the water, its spectacular. The boulders balancing against one another have created tunnels and overhangs that are beautiful to swim through under the water. We spent age’s snorkelling through the rocks and exploring the pools. Ashore they have created a trail that meanders along over, under and between the rocks and ends at Devils Bay. A perfect white beach edged with clear turquoise water. It is incredibly beautiful and we will definitely be back next year to spend some more time here.

Sadly it was time to head back and we made our way to Spanish Town, previously the capital of the B.V.I. It is still a major town and is thought to have been named for the Spanish settlers who came to mine the copper ore in the early 16th century. As we knew we would be motoring against the wind all the way back we wanted to fill up with diesel and needed a few groceries. We treated ourselves to a great lunch, checked out with customs and we were on our way!
An uneventful trip back to Sint Maarten we arrived just after 11h00 the next morning in time for the bridge opening. We rafted Southern Blue up to Rat Catcher and started cleaning and packing her up to be handed over to the dockyard for haul out the next morning. 

No comments: