International Rescue Group Reserve

Two years ago Andre flew to France to see a boat we were interested in called Rendezvous Cay, to cut a long story short we decided against buying it and were doubtful it would ever leave France!

Can you imagine our surprise as we sailed into Meeks Patch, Eleuthera to see that very boat tied up alongside a 97 foot steel yacht called Thunderbird 5!  We had to find out how it got there and what it was doing there. Approaching the boat we met Captain Ray Thackeray of Thunderbird 5. He informed us the previous owner had donated it to his organization called International Rescue Group after we had decided not to buy her! What a small world.

Some four weeks later as we crossed the channel back from George Town to Rat Catcher and who should we see anchored off of Chat and Chill beach but Thunderbird 5. Stopping to say hi Ray informed us Rendezvous Cay had sailed down from Eleuthera to Haiti to deliver relief supplies and had then headed back to USA for repair and overhaul to be chartered as one of the IRG boat to generate income for the organization.

Good Run left

Capt Ray Thackeray

As Capt. Ray had sailed the route we were considering taking South, Andre and John from JODA made a plan to visit and pick his brains.  In doing so we discovered Ray is the founder of International Rescue Group (IRG) run solely on donations. Thunderbird 5 was packed with supplies destined for Haiti who is still reeling from the effects of Hurricane Matthew. The organization owns 5 boats one of which is currently based in Haiti and would be receiving the donations to put to use. They are digging wells, putting roofs back on houses distributing medical supplies and other goods. In addition to the boats they own IRG has a growing group of Auxiliary or Reserve boats. Invited to dinner of an amazing triage of curries and awesome company we met the Captain and crew of Good Run, one of the reserve boats. 

Thiago

Tiago a Brazilian, who looks like the traditional pictures of Jesus and has a demeanor to match, is the proud owner and his friends Zack from USA and Emma from New Zealand are crew. They were rafted up alongside Thunderbird being filled with supplies for Haiti. Their home page is Good Run Sailing for Hope.

Dinner Guests

The dinner

Tiago had actually already had a fund raiser in USA and with the proceeds bought as many school supplies and other goods as he could to take to Haiti. Their travels brought them in contact with Capt. Ray the rest is history.

It didn't take long for Ray to convince both us to load supplies for our destination being Ilha de Vache onto Rat Catcher and Joda. That is how we became members of IRG Reserve.

The morning following dinner prior to setting sail South we ratted up against Thunderbird 5 and loaded a generator, a water maker, an 20 donated yacht sails, a folding bicycle, garden tools, various items including boat spares donated for the boat based in Haiti.

The generator will be used to drive the water maker which produces 2000 liters a day. Post disaster water requirements for maintaining life are calculated at 2 liters per person per day. This means this water maker will supply a village of 1000 people with fresh water daily.

The sails are for the traditional boats used by the Haitian fishermen. This their only means of propulsion, no motors no fuel even if there was they couldn't afford it. So sailors worldwide are asked to donate their used sails to "IRG" or "Sails for Sustenance". To be distributed.

The folding bike is for the local IRG go to man for his transport.

A huge container of roof nails. Garden tools including spades for the digging of the wells.

Joda was loaded with similar items.

Ray, Emma, Zack and Thiago
L-R

IRG's aims have boats around the world assisting with or responding to disaster. 

Being solely run on donations every dollar helps and if you can't assist with dollars how about spending some time aboard one of the boats at $20 a day which covers board and meals. 

Alternately run a fund raiser or  organize donations. 

Join IRG reserve and get involved, no costs to join.

Eleuthera

Leaving Marsh Harbour we headed South. Stopping overnight at Tahiti Beach and taking advantage of low tide for a long walk we headed for Lanyard Cay.

One of our buddy boats

There we found 13 other boats waiting to make the jump to Eleuthera. A sundowner on the beach ended up with a huge bonfire with dancing and meeting new friends. The winds and seas had died enough for us to get through the Little Harbour cut. Although from a distance it looked like the seas were still breaking in the cut as we neared there was a calmer narrow channel we squeezed through out to the open sea. A 2 - 3 meter swell with about a meter chop made for interesting sailing but sail we did. A reef in the main and 2/3 Genoa we were cruising along averaging 8 knots.

From endless pineapple fields to white and pink sand beaches to secluded coves and miles of coastlines, Eleuthera & Harbour Island defines The Bahamas. British Loyalists who settled here in the 1700s influenced much of the architecture and way of life. The other Bahamian islands, making Eleuthera & Harbour Island the birthplace of the entire country, have since adopted this style. In addition, the islands continue to charm visitors with tropical flair, as Harbour Island is known as one of the best islands in the Caribbean. If you’re visiting The Bahamas, Eleuthera & Harbour Island are not to be missed.

Ten hours later we entered Meeks Patch anchorage in Eleuthera. Meeks Patch is a well-used anchorage and is good for protection from Easterly or Westerly winds. This results in cruisers doing what they call the 'Meeks Patch Shuffle' as they move around the island as the winds change. Most of the boats that left with us also anchored there and a beach bonfire was once again in the cards for a fun evening.

 

Spanish Wells

I managed to get a snorkel in along the shallow shores and was rewarded seeing huge hairy looking crabs and eel.

The next morning we lifted anchor and headed for the uninhabited Egg Island. It's so named because it is home to chickens owned by residents of other nearby islands who travel here to collect the eggs.

We headed for the wreck just off Little Egg. In May of 1970, the Arimoroa, a steel-hulled, 260 foot Lebanese freighter, was traveling from South America to Europe with a cargo of guano-based fertilizer when a fire started in the ship's galley. The fire spread so rapidly that the captain ordered the ship to be run aground on the closest island (Egg Island in this case). The crew was able to escape, but the cargo continued to burn for three months, and the phosphates leaking from the wreck made the area around the wreck barren of sea life for several years.

Although we saw good-sized fish there is still very little coral on the wreck. No lobsters for dinner.

Just off of Spanish Wells was our next anchorage.

The first colonists were the Eleutheran adventurers from Bermuda (intending to be some of the first settlers of Eleuthera), who suffered shipwreck on a reef, known as the "Devil's Backbone" off Eleuthera in 1647. After living in a cave known as "Preacher's Cave" on Eleuthera, they ended up at Spanish Wells. Among other, later, groups of settlers were Crown loyalists, who left the United States after the American Revolutionary War. Historically, the island was used as a last stop for Spanish ships returning to Europe, where these ships refilled their water supply from wells created for this purpose - thus the English name of the settlement: Spanish Wells.

The townspeople are very house proud and it is obvious by the pristine condition of the town and beaches. They all drive around in golf carts and one often sees them stop to pick up litter that has blow in. We found them friendly and welcoming and keen to tell you about their town. Our favorite restaurant is Buddha’s Bar, we think they have the cheapest best hamburgers in Bahamas. At $4.99 and up to $7 with cheese and bacon added they are delicious. Their happy hour is one of the best at around $3.00 for everything beers and spirits included. Not hard to guess why they are full every night.

With a big blow expected we decided to head to A safe anchorage at Harbour Island via the infamous Devils Backbone Passage. The track runs between coral reef and the shore and it is advised to take a pilot aboard or, as we did, follow another boat who has done and knows the path. It's quite spectacular sailing not much more than a boat length from the shore with waves breaking both on the shore and on the reef, also about a boat length from your other side. The track winds between coral heads and shallow shores. Not for the faint hearted or for bad weather.

Tucked safely in with the anchor well buried, we headed ashore and set out to walk to Glass Window and The Queens Baths.

This famous bridge links North Eleuthera to the mainland of Eleuthera. It is notable because on can see the dark Atlantic meeting the aquamarine Caribbean at the thinnest part of the island.

Glass Window Bridge, originally the site of an extraordinary natural arch linking the Exuma Sound to the Atlantic, is one of the most impressive sights on Eleuthera.

A story I found while researching Glass Window Bridge! True or not I don’t know but I quite enjoyed the read! http://www.eleuthera-map.com/rage-glass-window-bridge-1.htm

NATURES FURY can be devastating. For centuries, there was a natural stone bridge connection between north and south Eleuthera. Phillip Thompson of Gregory Town remembers his parents talking about taking walks over it on a regular basis. Then in the 1940's, several hurricanes combined to destroy the seemingly immortal land bridge and a concrete replacement was built. For decades, this bridge was patched with reinforced concrete, but in 1992 and 1999 Mother Nature struck again without mercy. Hurricane Andrew chipped away at the old bridge significantly in '92, but in '99 the real damage came.

For more than 2 days and nights, Hurricane Floyd, a Category 4 hurricane, pounded the area of the Glass Window with persistently high winds and waves until nothing of the original Glass Window remained. Although the bridge was repaired and Queen's Highway re-connected within a few months, the geography of Eleuthera has changed forever.

The name "Glass Window" is still used, however, to describe the opening that connects the Atlantic and Caribbean oceans. Although natural rock has been replaced by man-made steel and concrete, the sense of awe still lingers. Stop the car and climb the rocks. Then marvel at the power of the Atlantic surf pounding against and through the narrow cut. The feeling is spectacular!

The Queen’s Bath or the Hot Tubs, are natural pools (carved by centuries of waves pounding the rock) are filled with dramatic crashing waves, shells and small sea life that wash over from the Atlantic Ocean. The sun, creating a bath like temperature tidal pool that’s perfect for soaking, warms this crystal clear water.  The best time to visit the hot tubs is during low or medium tide.  

Once the front had passed we headed back to Spanish Wells via the Devils Backbone. This time following our own track made on the way in!

A couple of days restocking and waiting for the right winds and we headed south.

Sailing through Current Cut un flat millpond seas we decided to anchor in the Lee of the Island. Once the hook was well in we all dinghied ashore after checking the nearby sea for some lunch. None found so lobster was not on the menu. As a front drew closer we watched the seas go from flat to a two-meter swell and a half meter chop in 20 mins. We sat it out hoping it would blow over but decided this was not going to be a comfortable night anchorage. Lifting anchor we headed for Hatchet bay.

Before the 1940's and the creation of "The Cut," a 90-foot artificial opening created by amphibious earth-moving machines, Hatchet Bay did not exist; only a land-bound lake next to Alice Township. After "the cut," Hatchet Bay then became known as the "country's safest harbour" since it was completely enclosed and provided terrific protection from foul winds and storms.

 

Joda going through the cut

Hatchet Bay has an awesome entrance. Not for the faint-hearted. From the sea it looks like there is no way we would fit through. As we were on our way in we spotted the fast ferry and seeing it screaming to ward us decided to stand off to allow it to pass first!

The Hangout!

Why was this the boys favourite stop again?

It didn’t even slow down with what looked like less than a meter space on each side it screamed through the cut did a very sharp right turn and headed for the dock. Following behind we discovered how much turbulence it created in the water. As we entered the cut our depth sounder started screaming, the current was pushing winds pulling and we held our breath until we were out the other side. It was the ferries turbulence that caused it and we were glad to enter the flat calm harbour.

Governors Harbour is a quaint little town with friendly people. The best coffee shop serves great coffee and snacks to lunches called ‘Da Perk’.

A long walk over the hill to the Atlantic side brings you to another pink beach. Not quite as spectacular as the one at Dunmore town but a stunning long beach with the usual Turquoise seas!

This is the capital of Eleuthera and wandering around takes you back to a time past. Victorian Era houses overlook the bay and the narrow lanes and steep hills take one past the homes of the islands wealthiest residents.

It was here we returned to, to meet up with the islands veterinarian when Lulu became ill. We met the most amazing young woman. Dr Italia Sands of Noah’s Ark Veterinary Centre. We met her ashore and dinghied her over to the boat to meet the patient. She promptly plonked herself on the floor of the salon next to Lulu and had a good chat with her before beginning her examination. It turns out she had a UTI and we had an amusing attempt at Dr S trying to get a pill down Lulus throat. She is a past master at not allowing you to put anything in her mouth. We eventually agreed I would dissolve the pills in a little water and get them in that way. Ten days of hell for poor Lulu but the meds worked.

Dr Sands has recently moved from Nassau home to Governor’s and has opened the clinic, while they are busy completing the surgery she drives the length and breadth of the Island visiting her patients. Thank you Dr Sands you are amazing.

Our next anchorage Rock Sound promised a Geocache and ashore we discovered a well-hidden secret of Rock Sound! The most amazing caves! Climbing down into the first cave we walked past the roots of trees still growing on the ground above, light filtering between the leaves creating a magical ambiance!

Sound Point was our last stop in Eleuthera before crossing over to Warderick Wells and the Exumas!

Fish Cakes and Poached Eggs

So it was with excitement and some apprehension we began preparing for our first guests aboard! Questions kept going through my mind, Would they like their cabin? Would it be sufficient? Would they like the meals? How would it all go!

By no stretch of anyone's imagination am I a Chef. Occasionally my meals are just edible not delicious, what if I had one of those disasters feeding them!

At least we knew Dick, he is our spinning instructor at the gym in St. John's, Newfoundland. Great sense of humour and seemed easy going. He was bringing his lady Andrea and was smitten that was a good enough indication of what she would be like. We were not wrong, both were a complete delight to have aboard. They didn't seem to starve, ate what was put in front of them, partied and played hard with us between chilling on deck and keeping up an ongoing game of scrabble between them.

We had planned a possible route and gave them options each day of what they could choose.

We set off immediately and took them snorkeling on the nearby reef. Andre stayed aboard and kept the motors running while we spent some time getting used to the water and exploring the reef. As the fish are fed by visitors they crowd around you in the water often bumping you to remind you that you are supposed to feel them. They both did well and we were happy to take them out to the next deeper reef at Fowl Cay.

The Fowl Cays National Park is a 1,920-acre reserve. The reefs and three 25′ to 40′ dive spots in untouched water are renowned.

After the swim we headed to Man-o-War Cay. We had dinner aboard then dinghied over to the dock to wander the town and get the best ice cream ever for dessert.

Man-O-War is one of our favorite places. It has a population of about 300 Bahamian residents and about 135 foreign resident families. During the summer some local houses are rented by vacationing families that have a reputation as good house guests. It has been a 'dry island' for many years (no alcohol) in the recent past the restaurant has been given permission to sell wine and beer. Progress? Lol

This island is about 2.5 miles (4.0 km) long, but relatively narrow, often less than 100 metres between the harbor and beach side of the Island. A section of island called "The Narrows" by visitors and "The Low Place" by locals is exceptionally narrow, with a beach on both sides separated by a roadway built into the rock formation between them, less than 10 metres across. The harbor side of the island faces Marsh Harbour, and a beach side runs the length of the opposite shore. The community is very close-knit, and most of the residents are in some way or another related to the Albury family. A number of workers commute each day from Marsh Harbour. There are two small grocery stores, a marina, a boat yard, a few gift shops, a hardware and lumber store, two restaurants and a bakery. Golf-carts are rented by several companies (the narrow roads, often unpaved outside of the town centre, only permit the use of golf-carts or other small vehicles). No liquor is sold on the island. The people are very conservative, and still hold deep affection and loyalty to the British Crown. The majority of the residents are avid church-goers. The island has four churches, one Non-denominational, one Pentecostal, one Methodist, and one Plymouth Brethren.

This is also where we spent Christmas Day with fellow Rhodesian and other South Africans. On the beach at 'The Low Place' we had a braai / BBQ.

Our next anchorage was at Great Guana Cay in Fishers bay where we walked the island and dined and partied at Grabbers. Expensive but most enjoyable, we think this is one of the most expensive island of Abacos. The two restaurants are very well known and 'must see' destination they make the most of it with $7 beers compared to about $4 elsewhere.

Hope Town wears the chosen destination for New Years Eve. We had thought to party ashore but heard there was nothing open unless you had booked seats at one of the many restaurants. Our friends on Joda joined us aboard and we played Mexican Train Dominos and laughed and chatted till everyone ran out of steam. Most of us slept while Dick was driven quietly crazy by repetitive playing of the song "Follow da Leada". Lol we had to include it in the video we made for them.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=b1pegMeq_lE

Man Jack was the next anchorage where they fed the Sting rays by hand and had shark darting in grabbing the scraps the Rays didn't get. A long walk on the Island and Yoga on the beach thanks to Dick. Was wonderful fun.

A quick stop at Crab Cay and Green Turtle Cay and then another favorite at No Name Cay to visit the pigs. Andrea does not eat Pork at all and we swear the pigs knew. They ate our of her hand like a trained dog. Very very gently. When she stroked one of the babies the Mum warned her off grabbing her arm in its mouth. Andrea says she could feel the teeth holding but the pig never bit down just gave her a stern warning.

Treasure Cay beach is known as one of the top 10 beaches in the world. Stunning is the word for this 3.5-mile stretch of sugar-soft, powdery white sand, matched only in brilliance by the sparkling  turquoise water colors lapping at its shore.

  

A fitting end to a wonderful week, it was then back to Marsh Harbour for the trip home to a snow covered St. John's.

We loved having you both. Hope to see you again soon.

Counting Blessings!

Most of you will know that we normally head for Canada during the hurricane season to work and refill our cruising kitty for the next season. Of course we had made a contingency plan to cover the possibility we did not get a contract, what we did not expect is Murphy's meddling and taking full advantage of the situation.

I had already booked my nursing practical hours I had to complete to be able to write my finals and had a time limit so was unable to postpone them till the following year I still had to go to Canada, alone. The problem would be that on contract our accommodation is covered under André's contract. Our expenses are living expenses only! 

Blessing number one came in the form of our friend JJ who offered me his second bedroom for the extent of my stay! Thank you JJ.

After many years out of nursing, especially General nursing, I confess to being just short of terrified to enter the field again. Blessing number two came in the form of Peggy and Natasha from the nursing school. Peggy is amazing she is so patient and confident and made me feel so too. Then she chose my tutor to work with in the form of Natasha! I worked side by side with her every day for a month. What a fantastic experience. She patiently and calmly guided me back into the field. Her knowledge and experience were invaluable to me and my learning curve sky rocketed in that time. Natasha I still hear your voice in my head 😇

The next couple of months I was to work with one of the RN's in the unit and Peggy and Natasha in their wisdom once again chose a superstar in Christine. It is very difficult to explain just how much her support meant to me. Her and her dream teams patience in answering my questions as I worked to refresh my nursing knowledge was invaluable and I loved every minute. There are no words to express my gratitude for their professionalism, patience, kindness, friendship and for making me feel part of the team. 

Dream Team

Dream Team Girls on Margies Birthday 

Although glad to be heading back to Rat Catcher and André I was sad to be leaving them. 

As the days flew by to my flight home, Hurricane Matthew had some ideas of his own and was speeding towards St. Augustine, André and Rat Catcher. A direct hit was predicted and Andre was running around doing his best to prepare his beloved boat for the worst. Two days before I was to fly in he and the town was given notice to evacuate. With a heavy heart he packed up Lulu in the rental car and headed North West out of the zone. He had been unable to find a pet friendly hotel and was planning on finding a shelter. On the way he decided coffee was a necessity and stopped at Dunking Donuts, right next door was the Holiday Inn, who had already told him on the phone they were full. Inspiration drove him to walk in and ask again! Blessing number three they did and he settled in to wait out the storm. 

Destroyed building and dinghy!

At the last moment Matthew turned away from the coast and instead of a direct hit he passed St. Augustine 30 miles offshore. The devastation was nothing like it would have been with a direct hit. Blessing number four, Rat Catcher survived with no damage at all. None of the South African boats in the yard were damaged either. There was only very minor damage from the pieces of flying building that broke apart to a couple of other yachts. 

Murphy, as I had mentioned was taking full advantage of our no new income situation. As we had been taking the sails down in preparation for the season we discovered they were de laminating. They might have lasted another season with a push but as we had the boat on the market and the sails are so important to our voyage we had to replace them? We discovered Ullman sails in South Africa would replace and ship them to us at about half the cost of replacing get hem in USA. Blessed!

Then the anti foul which usually lasts two to three years had not held up and to keep the boat in pristine condition she had to be redone. Contingency fund is being eaten fast by Murphy.

Next Andre noticed the boats battery bank was using lots of water and overheating and gassing. Luckily he noticed it. A boat in the yard burnt out while we were there because of the same problem. Murphy Murphy Murphy! We had to replace our entire battery back of six golf cart batteries. We were blessed Andre was alert and awake and noticed the problem before they exploded and caught alight!

Our anchor chain was badly rusted and we had been nursing it carefully but once again with the boat on the market and the chain being literally our life line when on anchor, it had to be replaced.  We were blessed by our friends on Vagabund, Zack and Magda! They had a spare chain they had not used and gifted it to us! Thank you both so very much!

The sail drive seals needed replacing but thanks to google and good friends like Alan on Alley Cat Andre managed to do them himself. What a huge saving of about $600 per side! 

Shortly after I arrived back, André flew out to South Africa. He needed some dental work on a previously replaced tooth that kept falling out and it was cheaper for him to fly to SA and have it done than have it done in USA. He was able to visit our families and get his tooth fixed before flying home.

I took advantage of being alone and spent hours each day studying for my NCLEX. My nursing finals exam I last took 32 years ago. Passing it would allow me to be registered and work in Canada. I had booked my exam for 15th November in Jacksonville. Luckily I was able to go to the exam center there instead of having to fly back to Canada! I chose the 15th as it was our 30th wedding anniversary and it had obviously been a lucky day for me in the past! After two days of gut wrenching terror I was informed I had passed! Blessed again! 

Finally Rat Catcher was prepared and ready to sail. We set out from St. Augustine on an overnight sail to Fort Pierce, then on to Fort Lauderdale where our blessing came in the form of Michelle and Tony Bennett. On the way down our house battery overheated and died!

Andre had made friends with them in St. Augustine while I was away. They have an apartment on the ICW near Sunrise Bay anchorage and invited us to use their dock to get ashore and offered us a car or to drive us around if we preferred! But that's not all, these two angels took us under their wings.  They invited us into their home, drove us around getting supplies we needed as our house battery had died on the way down. Murphy again!. We had a wonderful evening out as they introduced us to their favorite restaurant. Our last night there as we did our laundry in their home as they fed us on Pizza and wine. A fantastic evening. Thank you both so much we are looking forward to seeing you on the water. 

Murphy even lost all my blogs I had written and was about to post lol. I updated the app I use to do the drafts and the update wiped out my last few on the Canada trip, the hurricane and the restocking. Must have meant to be! So this is a rewrite!

That was not to be Murphys last. On the trip over the hinges to the heads seats disintegrated!

Murphy, give us a break!