Bahamas - Acklins Island

Acklins Island and Crooked Island lie just below the Tropic of Cancer. Lady Slipper Cay on Acklins was our first stop. Pristine deserted beach, with gentle surf running into Mangrove ponds that wind their way across the entire island. We had to explore. As the depth is only about two feet at low tide we took the kayak and paddled into the mangroves. Birds calling out and fish darting to move out of the way of our paddles. We entered off the east side of the beach and wound our way through until we reached the sea again further west. There we discovered our own little private beach, temptation was too great and we beached the kayak and wallowed in the water watching an Osprey hovering protectively over his nest!

 

That evening we all played Bocci Ball and had a huge bonfire and braai as we watched for a green flash as the sun set!

Crooked Island was a highlight and a delight! We only went there to see the famous light house but we got so much more! The Islanders are mainly Seventh Day Adventists, so us arriving on a Sunday meant everything was open. We were greeted warmly at the dinghy dock by Eugene and he offered to run us to the supermarket in his truck. We declined needing the walk and we wanted to see the town. Every person who drove past us either stopped to offer us a lift or just to greet us and introduce themselves. The pride they take in themselves and their town was evident in the neat gardens and houses, decorated with conch shells. We had heard Gibsons lunch house was the place to eat but it was closed! No problem, one of the people who stopped, Andy, was the owner's brother and he called her up and organized dinner for us.

We feasted on fresh snapper bites, fried chicken pieces, fresh grouper, corn, fresh baked bread, salad and rice n peas! Kendra the owner Wilhelmina's or Willy sister chatted to us about the island. She explained it was a 'family island' and that meant once you were there you were part of the family. Her 8 year old daughter finally overcame her shyness and came over to whisper in my ear that her name was Roshay but she preferred to be called Shay or Shay-Shay! After that it was cuddles and giggles and a request to come play with her again the next day. Sadly that was not possible as the wind was right and we left the next morning. Sorry Shay-Shay!

Walking back to the dinghy we passed the towns dress shop. We had to go in and us girls could not resist trying on the 'Church hats'.

 

On the way out we stopped at the light house. Bird Rock lighthouse is amazing, built in 1876 to guide the ships through the Crooked Island Passage. It stands 115 feet high and although now derelict and mainly the home of hermit crabs and nesting Ospreys one can imagine it in its early splendor!

Bahamas - Mayaguana and Lemon Shark!

After the beauty and friendliness of Turks and Caicos, Mayaguana was.......different!

We were met at the dinghy dock by a friendly local and pointed in the direction of the Customs and Immigration building. It appears Mayaguana has been forgotten by the powers that be. Their country flag bleached out and tattered hung limply on the pole, a request for maps of the island was met with the reply 'we used to have them but they ran out long ago'.

We managed to buy data cards to be able to check weather and were pointed in the direction of the local store to buy bread. There was virtually no one about, we finally found the store but it was locked and our calls to the adjoining house finally roused the owner to open up for us. The supplies arrive weekly on the mail ship and the bread was the previous weeks and at USD6 a loaf we decided we could do without!

We finished up as soon as possible and headed out of town. Lifting anchor we set off for Betsy's Bay then Plana Cay; this was more like it!

We had heard from a cruising friend that he hung the carcass of a fish over the stern of his boat and attracted Rays and Shark. We decided Plana Cay was the perfect place to try it. The first one we hung over and then went ashore for a walk. On our return we found the 3mm nylon line it had been on was snapped and the weight we had used to tie it to the rail pulled tight. Wow! It had to have been something big. Before putting the next one in the water we went for a snorkel and found a huge Grunter below the boat. Andre swam down with his GoPro and as he approached the fish made his loud grunting noises and swam out of reach. As Andre floated back up to the surface a large Barracuda swam at him, he didn't notice but wondered what I was pointing at! I had my head out of the water laughing and explaining to him what had happened when he suddenly pointed behind me. I thought Mr. Barracuda fancied my toes and turned as I pulled my feet up. I was not wearing fins at the time. There not even two meters below us was a two meter lemon shark. He swam lazily under us apparently ignoring us.

We moved close to the floating dinghy and boat and watched as he circled in and out. Then a smaller reef shark also came in to see what was happening. Eventually they moved off and we got out! We had made a new best friend. Mr Lemon shark obviously liked what was on the menu and moved between the three boats. We quickly re baited our lure line and dropped it in the water. He was game and came in slowly taking his time as he took the fish in his mouth. Putting some resistance on the line we we were able to turn him and pull him towards the boat. He didn't fight it just chewed lazily on the carcass as he tried to swim away. He eventually got it off and headed for the next boat for their contribution to his dinner!

For the next two days we were there he moved from boat to boat checking to see if his 'dinner' had been refreshed. Incredible!

Turks and Caicos

The time had come to leave Puerto Rico. We prepared ourselves for the 54 hour sail and set off. Although the seas were choppy we were able to fly spinnakers during the day dropping them only when the squalls caught up! One caught us unaware and the 25 knot gust tripped the emergency line spilling the wind and allowing us to douse it till the squall had passed.

The trip took us past the deepest point in the Atlantic Ocean. The average depth in the Atlantic is 3,339 meters. The deepest point in the Puerto Rico trench known as Milwaukee Deep is 8,380 meters.

This is the kind of space we prefer beneath our keel! But it was to change!

Sandy Cay

After our 54 hours we were grateful to duck in behind Big Sand Cay. The name is appropriate little more than a deserted sand dune in the middle of the ocean we had reached paradise! Tucked in the calm waters behind the island, our peace did not last long, as the sun started to set we were hit with a storm of note. The sea boiled itself into a frenzy and we were surfing two meter swell bouncing on our anchor. The planned evening on Alley Cat was cancelled and we all turned in early. It was disorientating to wake the next morning to absolute silence and stillness. Where was I? Nothing moved, not a breeze stirred. We peeped out to Paradise.

Dinner

It wasn't long before we were in the water exploring. Andre got us crayfish and fish and our dinner menu was set! Around mid day we lifted anchor and headed for Big Fish Cay!

There we walked over the island to the now defunct lighthouse lying on its side. An Osprey had claimed it as it's home and built a huge nest which it sat on; regally watching the interlopers, us! Back in the water we swam with huge Spotted Eagle Ray and every colour and shape of fish you can imagine. Stunning. 

Big Fish

Having said we prefer some depth under our keel the next two days of our trip took us across the Caicos Bank. The average depth was 1.5 meters. At all times one of us was on the bow watching for 'bommies'; heads of rock and coral just waiting for an unsuspecting mariner to impale their boat. 

This is where we finally understood the definition of 'Gin Clear' water! Water so clear it's almost invisible making you feel as if you are suspended in nothing above the floor rather than floating! The huge star fish on the bottom like magical stepping stones along our path!

We are sailing look how shall
how and clear the water is.

The end of day one we chose a spot and dropped anchor, in the middle of nowhere. Drifting above our anchorage watched for the green flash as the sun set.

At 0700 Andre's call of 'Dolphin' had us pulling on snorkel gear and slipping into the water. The Dolphin wanted to play, they swam to within about 5 meters from us and slowly circled us, then turned and swam away watching us over their shoulders! When they saw we were following they would speed up with us trying desperately to keep them in sight. When they realized we were falling behind they would turn and swim back to us again as if to say 'come on, come play'. Then off again circling round and round us and the boats. This carried on for about an hour before they tired of their slow play mates and with a last look back swam off. Incredible, there are not enough words to explain the feeling of swimming and playing with wild dolphin.

 

Providenciales, or 'Provo' is the largest Island on Turks and Caicos was our next stop to check in to the country. South Side Marina was our destination. What a great place. Anchored just out of the Harbour in about two meters of water we Dinghied ashore and the customs and immigration people were called. Here, unlike other countries they come to us. Marsha the customs official was wonderful, great sense of humour interesting and efficient. What a pleasure!

South Side Marina anchorage

We used the marina facilities to catch up on laundry, wifi and were lucky to catch cruisers evening happy hour! Our timing was perfect as the following night was their weekly Big Fish Fry! In the town of Provo they had stalls of food and craft and music and dancing we joined in. It was also the Miss Provo finalists evening to strut the stage. 

This little guy tucked in to be included in the photo

A great end to our stay in Turks and Caicos. We stopped at Sapodilla Bay and West Caicos before heading for Mayaguana the first Island in Bahamas! 

Off West Caicos we donned our scuba gear and descended. As we swam down the wall who should come in to greet us but a large Black tip Reef Shark. He swam lazily by watching us watching him. Obviously the word was out as soon there were four or five shark patrolling the wall. Fantastic.

Puerto Rico

Puerto Rico, a collision of past and present! From deserted islands to cosmopolitan cities that are a clash of old world and ultra modern. Funky restaurants nestle next to 15th century Spanish Forts, sprawling shopping malls encroach on tropical rainforests and glitzy casinos alongside pristine beaches!

Our first stop was Culebra - the island that time forgot; there we met up with John Perry on Stingo! John a single cruiser has used this anchorage as his home base for a year! One can see why!

Culebra was also a milestone for us. Our theme song for the race and this trip is 'Destination Unknown' by                         And they name 'Culebra' as one of the destinations!

The main town 'Dewey' named after a famous Admiral was built in 1903 after the US military decided it needed to be nearer to the water. Previously named 'Pueblo Viejo' they moved everything and the inhabitants to its current spot and changed the name. The locals still call it 'Pueblo'! A lift-bridge was originally built for the two local fishing boats and is no longer in use but quite an impressive sight!

Tucked behind a wide reef it is a short distance from the village which boasts three restaurants, an airport and two superettes! Having walked to the airport to check in we had happy hour beers at 'The Dinghy Dock' then over to Zacko's Tacos for the most delicious tacos we have ever eaten, too big to finish we all went home with doggy bags!

Only 17 miles east of mainland Puerto Rico, it is said Culebra could be on a different planet, culturally speaking! Lonely planet describes it as home to 'an offbeat mix of rat-race dropouts, earnest idealists, solitude seekers, myriad eccentrics and anyone else who can't get their head around modern life. Known for its soft white beaches and world class diving reefs the island is beautiful! Culebra means 'snake' in Spanish and describes the shape of the island. Seven miles long by three miles wide!

Isla Culebrita and it's natural 'Jacuzzis' an area of large natural protected pools that the sea is forced into creating bubbles and streams, was our next stop!

Another highlight one cannot miss on Culebrita is a hike to the century old lighthouse built in 1880! 305 feet above water the view around the island and across to Culebra is well worth the climb.

 

We had no sooner tied onto a mooring buoy and dipped into the crystal clear waters when all four boats who had picked up those buoys nearer to shore were invaded by swarms of bees. Anything that had a drop of fresh water was quickly covered by them. We all ducked inside and eventually after dark most of them flew off. We thought that was it but the next morning they were back. With four of the eight of us allergic to bees we were soon on our way back to Culebra. A charter boat captain we met there says he has been going there for years and never had a bee problem before.

In Bahia Almadovar we anchored in about 2 meters of flat water once again tucked behind long reef. Marita and I took the kayaks the next morning and explored the area and bays while they guys worked together to sort out a hassle on Shiloh! Later we took the dinghy and headed out to sea to a shallow reef to snorkel. Wow! Living corals of all colour it was like swimming in an aquarium! Stunning!

It was here we hoisted our new spinnaker. She works beautifully and is quite impressive.

A marina stop at Puerto Del Rey Marina was next on the cards. Spares were needed by all the boats and we needed to stock up for the rest of the trip. Puerto Rico is the ideal place cost wise and we spent an entire day shopping! Yuck!

After checking out in the quaint town of Fajardo (pronounced Ferhardo) ex set sail for San Juan.

San Juan is the capital and the epitome of the diverse contrasts that is Puerto Rico.

The indigenous people, Tainos, are thought to have arrived from Florida on a raft around the 1st century AD, soon followed by groups from the lesser Antilles. They developed a sophisticated trading system on the island and became the reigning culture. This all changed in 1508 when Juan Ponce de Leon arrived and spotted one of Christopher Columbus' ships in port. Driven by the desire for gold the Spanish conquistadors enslaved, murdered starved an raped natives. Virtually wiped out by war, smallpox and whooping cough the few remaining took to the mountains. Soon the Dutch and French were making frequent stops and by 1530 West African slaves numbered half the population of 3000.

 

 

Old San Juan dates back to these times. Its incredible to think the old forts we visited, Fuerte San Juan del Morro and Fuerte San Christobal; built back in 1539 have been used all these years and are still standing. The last time they were used in defence was during the second world war. The 140 foot walls, in some places 15 feet thick are a sight to behold. San Christobal in its prime covered 27 acres with a maze of six interconnecting forts of the walls, moats, booby-trapped bridges and most amazing interconnecting tunnels protecting a central core. The fort has seven levels, every time it needed extending they built a new level.

 

 

 

We spent an entire day exploring the forts and wandering around the old town!

Of course a trip to San Juan would not be complete without visiting the Bacardi Rum Distillery! Not only a tour of the plant but FREE Rum :) It is also called "The Cathedral of Rum" because of its six story pink Distillation tower. It is the worlds largest and rum producing family who began the business more than a century ago in Cuba but moved in 1936. They produce about 100 000 gallons of rum per day and ship 21 million cases per year worldwide!