Puerto Rico, a collision of past and present! From deserted islands to cosmopolitan cities that are a clash of old world and ultra modern. Funky restaurants nestle next to 15th century Spanish Forts, sprawling shopping malls encroach on tropical rainforests and glitzy casinos alongside pristine beaches!Our first stop was Culebra - the island that time forgot; there we met up with John Perry on Stingo! John a single cruiser has used this anchorage as his home base for a year! One can see why!
Culebra was also a milestone for us. Our theme song for the race and this trip is 'Destination Unknown' by And they name 'Culebra' as one of the destinations!
The main town 'Dewey' named after a famous Admiral was built in 1903 after the US military decided it needed to be nearer to the water. Previously named 'Pueblo Viejo' they moved everything and the inhabitants to its current spot and changed the name. The locals still call it 'Pueblo'! A lift-bridge was originally built for the two local fishing boats and is no longer in use but quite an impressive sight!
Tucked behind a wide reef it is a short distance from the village which boasts three restaurants, an airport and two superettes! Having walked to the airport to check in we had happy hour beers at 'The Dinghy Dock' then over to Zacko's Tacos for the most delicious tacos we have ever eaten, too big to finish we all went home with doggy bags!
Only 17 miles east of mainland Puerto Rico, it is said Culebra could be on a different planet, culturally speaking! Lonely planet describes it as home to 'an offbeat mix of rat-race dropouts, earnest idealists, solitude seekers, myriad eccentrics and anyone else who can't get their head around modern life. Known for its soft white beaches and world class diving reefs the island is beautiful! Culebra means 'snake' in Spanish and describes the shape of the island. Seven miles long by three miles wide!
Isla Culebrita and it's natural 'Jacuzzis' an area of large natural protected pools that the sea is forced into creating bubbles and streams, was our next stop!
Another highlight one cannot miss on Culebrita is a hike to the century old lighthouse built in 1880! 305 feet above water the view around the island and across to Culebra is well worth the climb.
We had no sooner tied onto a mooring buoy and dipped into the crystal clear waters when all four boats who had picked up those buoys nearer to shore were invaded by swarms of bees. Anything that had a drop of fresh water was quickly covered by them. We all ducked inside and eventually after dark most of them flew off. We thought that was it but the next morning they were back. With four of the eight of us allergic to bees we were soon on our way back to Culebra. A charter boat captain we met there says he has been going there for years and never had a bee problem before.
In Bahia Almadovar we anchored in about 2 meters of flat water once again tucked behind long reef. Marita and I took the kayaks the next morning and explored the area and bays while they guys worked together to sort out a hassle on Shiloh! Later we took the dinghy and headed out to sea to a shallow reef to snorkel. Wow! Living corals of all colour it was like swimming in an aquarium! Stunning!
It was here we hoisted our new spinnaker. She works beautifully and is quite impressive.
A marina stop at Puerto Del Rey Marina was next on the cards. Spares were needed by all the boats and we needed to stock up for the rest of the trip. Puerto Rico is the ideal place cost wise and we spent an entire day shopping! Yuck!
After checking out in the quaint town of Fajardo (pronounced Ferhardo) ex set sail for San Juan.
San Juan is the capital and the epitome of the diverse contrasts that is Puerto Rico.
The indigenous people, Tainos, are thought to have arrived from Florida on a raft around the 1st century AD, soon followed by groups from the lesser Antilles. They developed a sophisticated trading system on the island and became the reigning culture. This all changed in 1508 when Juan Ponce de Leon arrived and spotted one of Christopher Columbus' ships in port. Driven by the desire for gold the Spanish conquistadors enslaved, murdered starved an raped natives. Virtually wiped out by war, smallpox and whooping cough the few remaining took to the mountains. Soon the Dutch and French were making frequent stops and by 1530 West African slaves numbered half the population of 3000.
Old San Juan dates back to these times. Its incredible to think the old forts we visited, Fuerte San Juan del Morro and Fuerte San Christobal; built back in 1539 have been used all these years and are still standing. The last time they were used in defence was during the second world war. The 140 foot walls, in some places 15 feet thick are a sight to behold. San Christobal in its prime covered 27 acres with a maze of six interconnecting forts of the walls, moats, booby-trapped bridges and most amazing interconnecting tunnels protecting a central core. The fort has seven levels, every time it needed extending they built a new level.
We spent an entire day exploring the forts and wandering around the old town!
Of course a trip to San Juan would not be complete without visiting the Bacardi Rum Distillery! Not only a tour of the plant but FREE Rum :) It is also called "The Cathedral of Rum" because of its six story pink Distillation tower. It is the worlds largest and rum producing family who began the business more than a century ago in Cuba but moved in 1936. They produce about 100 000 gallons of rum per day and ship 21 million cases per year worldwide!
