Christmas 2011 in Trinidad

We had been hoping to get to Grenada for Christmas but the weather had other ideas. With 20 to 30 knot winds on the nose and seas at 3 - 4 meter swells also from the front we decided Trinidad it was.

We were determined not to have it in the working harbor of Chagauramas, so we up anchor and went round the tip of the peninsular to Carnage Bay. It seems so named as old our of commission boats of all kinds and sizes are simply ridden onto the rocks and left to rot.

But the bay we wen into off of the "Trinidad and Tobago Sailing Association" Yacht club was very nice. Much cleaner than Chagauramas. Not that we would swim in it. Also anchored there were our friends on Catamaran Moonwalker, Russel a Kiwi with his wife Karin, a Brazilian and their baby daughter Brisa.  and Yacht Harlequin, South Africans we also met in Brazil with Warren and Tanya and the Rottweiler Cali. The 24th we all had lunch on Harlequin and it was great. Laughs good food and company.

Prison Island.
The sloot on the right is rumored
 to take the heads of executed prisoners to the sea.
 But it is just for waste.

Brings back memories, This is what I started sailling on. 

Ali and Cali

Harlquin lunch on 24th Dec 2011

Tanya. Warren and Cali.

Christmas day the club was deserted so we took over. We set up tables of food and drink and a braai. Of course Caribbean Rhum punch was the order of the day. We swam in the pool. ate drank and had a great time.

Boxing day we woke and went over to customs to clear out so we could use the weather window the next day.

At 04h00 on the morning of the 27th we set sail for Grenada. I use the tern "sail" loosely as we bumped smashed and slammed into chop and swell most of the way.

We made good time and were able to anchor just before sunset.

Welcome to Grenada.

Brisa, our Christmas Angel arriving.

Isn't she precious. Brisa is Wind in Portuguese.

Christmas present was a hit!

Riding Bike with Mum!

Anse Bateau

Anse Bateau – nature lovers paradise

Charlotteville is basically a one road town where the yacht community is concerned. You can buy beer (they have their priorities right) and on a good day you might find a restaurant open. The one restaurant recommended in the cruising guide was closed for renovations! The other in the street was closed!

When we returned to Charlotteville to check out after Anse Bateau; there was a huge football match, every road was jam packed with cars and people. The football field under spotlight and music blaring from speakers the size of small houses. Everyone decked out in their finest rave party gear, most leaving little to the imagination.  We decided dinner and drinks in town and watch the 'people show' was a good idea. Can you believe with all those people not one food establishment was open! One bar only! It was amazing, the proprietor’s wife sitting with a box about a half meter square, FULL of cash on her lap. She digs in when you need change comes up with a fist full and scratches through to find the right notes.

We finally found one small place open that had been closed on every other day. Fish, chicken, beef and goat Trinidad style on rice with baked pasta and beans was on the menu. The only other patrons were 4 guys who sounded like they were from Germany and Sweden. So dinner was served watching the waves wash up the beach almost to our feet and it was great!

But back to the beginning! After finally checking in with the ever friendly (not) customs official we stayed another two nights! We were waiting for weather to improve as it was raining cats and dogs. We finally decided if we were going to wait the weather out we were going to do it in a better setting and lifted the anchor motoring north.

We left Pirates Bay, rounded North Point and turned east. The coastline up this end of Tobago is very different to the South end. Down south the coast is consists of beach dunes running into the coral reef. Up North it is steep sheer cliffs dropping deep into the ocean. Only the occasional beaches dotted among the cliffs.

We rounded the head of the island, passing between St. Giles Island and the shore. In this group of uninhibited islands there is an amazing rock called 'London Bridge'. It has been totally hollowed out but the action of the sea making an eye through it. 

One of our dives from the new anchorage was to this site and we descended to the rocky floor and then swam through the eye. The gap between the rocks is about one meter wide and you ride the current and it rushes through. It picks you up and sweeps you forward then tries its best to pull you back out. The dive-master suggested you hang on when the back rush happens and then kick gently to move forward with the tide. Luckily we found we didn't need to, being old divers and snorkelers we are used to being washed about by the sea so you just give a good steady kick against the wash and stay in one place until it turns to take you with it.

Grabbing rocks is never a good idea under water, this was proved again as we swam out the other side and saw a good size Spotted Scorpion fish lying lazily on the rock watching our progress daring some unsuspecting diver to touch him and get stung. They are almost perfectly camouflaged and you have to look carefully to differentiate between them and the rock they rest on. Their dorsal fin contains very toxic venom and gives an extremely painful sting.

As we washed through the eye, I turned on my back; it was incredible to watch the turbulent water smashing through the space above you.

Back to the journey, we rounded the tip of the island and headed South again past Anse Gouleme, Anse Brisant and lay anchor in Anse Bateau. A small bay protected by Goat Island and Little Tobago Island.

On shore is the hotel Blue Waters Inn, it is swt alone amid steep wooded hills edged by a pristine beach. The bay has beautiful clear water and is great for swimming, snorkelling and diving.

We were made completely welcome here. The manager is a Trinidadian Yachtsman and he encourages the yachting visitors. They opened their doors to us, we were free to use all their facilities including their brand new swimming pool that was completed and officially opened while we were there. The staff was very friendly and went out of their way to assist us at every opportunity. An example is we ran out of airtime while there and our waitress (Georgina) phoned her boyfriend and he drove to Charlotteville to buy us some airtime.

One of the staff at the dive shop, Aquamarine dive, had seen us trying to buy Roties in Charlotteville (Arab bread stuffed with hot curries, delicious) they offered to pick up some for us in Speyside ( a little town in the next bay) after the dive. Thereafter each day we dived they drove off at lunch ot fetch Roties.

Not once did we feel there was an ulterior motive.




We took one of the tours to Little Tobago Island Bird Sanctuary. Little Tobago is also known as the 'Bird of Paradise Island'. This is because in 1909 the owner, wealthy British newspaperman, William Ingram, imported 50 of the birds from their native New Guinea when he saw them being slaughtered for their feathers. The birds did well for years and on his death, his son deeded the island to the government with the stipulation it be kept as a reserve. But in 1963 Hurricane Flora had no respect for deeds and blew the beautiful birds out to sea where they drowned, the few that did manage to hang on soon died out. Although the New Guinea government offered to replace them local naturalists have objected as the native birds are thriving.

The island is the nesting ground of the Red Billed Tropicbird. At the island you climb to the top of the mountain and the Tropicbirds are all over on the edge of the cliffs on their nests. These birds are very graceful in flight but have very, very short legs and strong feet for swimming. In a human I guess it would be the equivalent of having legs from your shins down. This means the Tropicbird cannot land or really walk. We watched them 'crash land' in the bushes. They hobble and slide to their nests. When they want to fly off for food they slide and roll to the edge of the cliff then launch themselves into space using the speed of their fall to take to flight.

With the number of Tropicbirds about the Magnificent Frigate Birds have a smorgasbord of offerings. These birds, despite living over the seas are not seabirds and cannot land on the water. Their main food source is flying fish and theft! We watched in awe as they chase down the Tropicbirds in flight, grab and shake them to make them drop their meal, then let them go as they swoop down to grab the falling food from the sky. The Tropicbirds are unhurt, except maybe for their dignity and fly off to restock. At one stage we watched five Frigate birds after one Tropicbird. It was like watching an old aerial dogfight, swooping and turning as the Tropicbird tried every evasive manoeuvre to avoid being hit.

On the way back from the island we stopped to snorkel. The boat has a glass bottomed and en route they took us over the reputed second biggest Brain Coral in the world. It rises eleven feet high and sixteen feet in diameter. Brain coral is so named as it looks like a human brain on its stem.

We did a few other dives while there to Japanese Gardens, Sleepers, Black Jack hole (named after the large Crevalle Jacks that visit at the end of summer). We didn’t see any of the oceans large ones like the Manta or Shark, the viability wasn’t fantastic and the sea rough. There were hundreds of reef fish in every colour and hue. My favourites must be the huge black and gold Angel fish. They are so curios and turn to watch you watching them, their huge yellow rimmed eye following your movement. 

I had an appointment with the US Embassy in Port of Spain Trinidad on the 15^th November so sadly our time at Anse Bateau had to end. We lifted anchor on Sunday 11^th and set off back to Charlotteville, where we had to sign out. Our plan was to be at the door the next morning at 08h00 when they opened so we could leave immediately for Trinidad. A different Customs officer was on duty and he signed us out no problem, when we explained again why we had not signed in and out of customs in Scarborough he was totally unconcerned saying it wasn’t our fault and not to worry. Then it was Immigrations turn. We discovered that an immigration officer had to be called from Scarborough, he would drive up to Charlotteville to sign us out then go back. To us the logic just wasn’t there. He was probably the one who had signed us out of Scarborough then would drive to Charlotteville to sign us back in. J Well that is how it works so we had to wait until 10h30 when he promised to be there.

Breakfast was on the cards and we finally found ‘Tanty’s Kitchen’ that was just opening for the day. Clarence the owner, is delightful. He spent many years in USA and moved home to Tobago to retire. He explained no one in Charlotteville served breakfast but he could make one of the lunch dishes for us. Fresh fried fish and chips were prepared. It was great and very nicely served with sliced cucumber and tomato. They even found coffee for us.

The Immigration officer finally arrived at about 10h45 and signed us out. We decided it was too late to set sail for Trinidad as leaving then meant we would arrive in the middle of the night. So we went down to coast and anchored in Store Bay. Anchor up the next morning at 05h00 and we sailed into Scotland Bay Trinidad (just round the corner from Chagauramas) at about 16h00.

On Thursday the 15^th we were picked up by Dave of Ian’s taxis at 06h00 and arrived at the US Embassy just before 07h00. My appointment was at 09h00 but we had been advised to go early to avoid the traffic and the ques. When we got there about 100 people were already in line for their appointments. How it works is at the hour of your appointment you are let into the building. You had over your passport and papers then sit and wait to be called. I was finally called to my interview at 11h00.

Done and dusted they would courier my passport back to me in the next 3 – 5 working days. We had been told we would wait the max. To our surprise Peake Office called us at about 09h00 on the Monday to inform us the courier was there with my passport.

We had been hoping to leave as soon as we got it for Christmas in Grenada, but the weatherman is not as efficient as the US Embassy and had thrown 30 – 40 knot winds and 3 -5 meter swells at 9 secs into the passage between Trinidad and Grenada. So here we sit, it looks like Christmas in Trinidad and taking the small gap in the weather on the 26^th to make for Grenada.

To all our family and friends, we wish you a very Merry Christmas. May your 2012 be blessed in every way!!

Store Bay to Charlotteville - Tobago

Fire Worm

We arrived at Undersea Tobago at 0830 on Monday 28th for our first scuba of the Caribbean! We had been told the first dive of the day was to be a wreck on the Caribbean side and then a dive on the Atlantic side!

Derek the owner was to be our dive guide for the day and Ellis was the boat skipper. Loaded up and ready to dive we set off towards Mount Irvine Bay! The destination was the wreck of the ferry formerly called Sacred Ibis and renamed Maverick! She had been the ferry between Tobago and Trinidad until she became too small for the requirements and was sold to a private owner. He used her to transport goods up and down the coast of Tobago until she ran out of steam! She then lay in Store Bay at anchor until she was acquired by the Tobago Tourism and dive board and they planned to sink her to create an artificial reef. Her sea cocks were open and according to Derek she took almost the whole day to sink, as she sunk to the ocean floor at about 20 meters she hit bottom and cracked almost in the middle before the stern settled! In the 5 years she has been on the bottom, Mother Nature has taken over and decorated her with living corals and fish!

The coral covering her has tiny white flower like tips, the effect looks as if she is covered in snowflakes! It's is very pretty! In amount this white soft coral are fire worms! They are about 4 to 6 inches in length and covered in tiny white hair-like things that, when disturbed, flare out and the sting is apparently severe! In my ignorance I was touching and fanning them to make the white hairy 'flowers' that they shot out appear! I only heard after we had surfaced what they were!

Ignorance is bliss! I even caught one on my hand that had been dislodged by the bubbles as we swam through the hold of the ferry! As it slowly floated down I put my hand underneath it and it landed softly and began to crawl! As it moved between my fingers I moved to suddenly for its liking and it's white stinger flowers appeared! Ignorant to their meaning I felt the burn but ignored it as she kept crawling off my hand and up the arm of my wetsuit! I then realized the rest of the group and moved on and turned my hand over so she could continue her drift to the floor! I was feeling the stinging burn between my fingers where she had touched but it wasn't bad just a itchy burn! I was lucky! Derek our dive master couldn't believe my luck! As I say ignorance is bliss!. I should know better than to touch unknown things underwater!

Huge Angel fish watched cautiously as we swam through the wreck! A school of Snapper darted ahead of us! Tiny fish in every colour combination swam through the soft corals that cover the entire hull!


The second dive was off of Tobago airport runway and called 'Flying Reef'. By this time the weather had come in and turned the way green! Although everything not lit by a flash was green the dive was awesome! Tobago is working had at re-establishing their reefs and it is working! The fish are plenty full and every colour of the rainbow! We saw at least 5 nurse sharks, the largest of which was almost 2 meters! Lying placidly on the bottom on the reef as is their nature! She only wriggled irritated when Derek pulled her out by her tail! Then she moved off a little, frowning at the intrusion to her solitude!

Banded clown shrimp in their red and white stripes were peeping out of the coral, curious as to what we were up to! The blue green and mauve Parrot fish moved lazily out if our reach as we swam by!  We saw a number of Rays swimming by in the distance! despite the relatively poor visibility the dive was great! Well worth the effort!

We had planned to go into Scarborough the next day, check out and leave! But we got chatting to John, where we had left a load of laundry when we went into town and discovered he could get good priced diesel! So much for leaving! He could only go fill the containers at 4pm so we had to wait!

We sailed out of Store Bay at 09h20 on the 30^th November. By 11h25 we were anchored in Mt. Irvine Bay. The attraction here is the Grafton Caledonia Bird sanctuary. It used to be an Estate but when Hurricane Flora wrecked the nearby forest in 1963 bird sought food nearer to human habitation and the owners adopted these feathered orphans, feeding, watering and protecting them. On the short walk there we spotted on the side of the road a huge snake! Sadly it had been run over by a car and was dead. It was over a meter long and as thick as my arm! It was the most beautiful colours. While we were busy examining it (it was not damaged in any way, the car must have broken its spine or something) a car stopped. We got chatting to the driver a local tour guide. He told us it was a Rainbow Constrictor and was quite common in the area! He also offered us a lift to the Bird Sanctuary, which we accepted!

We were still walking up the path towards it when we spotted out first Blue Crested Motmot. Nearer the old homestead we were welcomed by the cackling screech of the Rufus Vented  Chachalaca! There are no cages or anything in this sanctuary, all th birds are there “voluntarily”. I was excited to see what else we could spot. It was then the common and multiple flying Mosquito attacked! Man I have never seen so many. We kept walking into the forested sanctuary for about 15 minutes until neither of us could take it anymore. We couldn’t even look for birds as every time we hesitated and stopped moving to spot birds the number of mozzies on us multiplied by thousands so we looked like we were wearing a suit of them! We finally gave up and ran for the road! The Chachalacas seeming to have a good cackle at our discomfort! We have officially renamed it as the Grafton Mosquito Sanctuary!

We were not blown away by the anchorage either and so immediately set sail for the next anchorage being Plymouth in Great Courland Bay! We spent the night there and headed for Englishmans Bay in the morning.

Englishmans is scooped out of the rocky forested coastline and edged with a flawless beach. Nestled among the trees is the “One Stop Shop” restaurant and souvenir store. We snorkelled then went ashore for coffee and cake and a walk up the hill to photograph the Bay from above!

The next morning it was off to Charlotteville. This was the next “check-in” port where we had to visit Immigration and Customs! What a mess! The Immigration officer in Scarborough told us that as we were coming from Trinidad we didn’t need to see Customs at all! We double checked when we went in check out again and were told in no uncertain terms that it was not necessary!

Our arrival in Charlotteville coincided with lunch so we had to wait. Eventually at 3pm we gave up! On our way back to the boat we stopped at the vegetable seller, he asked if we had found Customs as he had shown us where the building was originally!  When we told him we had but no one was there, he said he had forgotten to show us the “other office” and proceeded to point out a house near to the offices! We went and knocked and a bare chested chap came to the door looking very irritated! He told us to wait at the office he would be there in 5 minutes!

When he arrived and found we had not checked into or out of customs in Scarborough he had found a reason to take out his irritation on us! He informed us we would have to go back to Scarborough and complete customs! When we explained why we had not he made as if he did not believe our story; but  he finally called Scarbrough and spent the next 30 minutes on the phone complaining that the last 6 yachts that had arrived had the same story as ours, to whomever was listening. So we were saved! Or we hope so, we will only know when we go to check out again in about a week!