Anchorages 2 to 4

Anchorages 2 to 4 – 28th Feb 2011 Praia dos Mangues has a walk over the mountain across the island to a beach on the open sea side of the island called Lopes Mendes. So we putted across to the beach in the rubber duck and walked over the mountain. The beach was beautiful and spotlessly clean. Water temperature is about 30deg C. We lay on the beach for a while then set off back over the mountain. Just in time!! Boat loads of day visitors were arriving and we passed them on the way back. We pulled the anchor and set off for Angra Dos Reis to be stamped in. In Brazil every place you go to you have to be stamped in and out by the “Capitain Dos Portos” (Captain of the Port). Having been told it was a major hassle it was great to be in and out in 5 mins with pleasant helpful people in charge. We anchored at the Iate Clube Rio De Janeiro subside Angra dos Reis (ICRJ s ADR); compliments of our new friend who has an anchorage there and is a member. She contacted the commodore and told him we were her guests from South Africa and they were to award us every privilege of a member. Many thanks to Leila Winkler!!! She has given us and incredible base to work from in the area. We can anchor there use their water and power and come and go as we please. That afternoon having completed the necessary red tape we decided to go back to Il ha Grande, to the bay called Enseada de Sitio Forte. By this tme the South Easter had sprung up and was gusting 30 knots. The bay had a big swell and chop and we thought it would be more protected there. So we sailed across, about one and half hours sail and moored at Praia Tapera. We had just settled down with sun downers and realised our anchor was dragging. The wind was gusting 30 knots and more. So we up anchored and moved. Once again dinner was on the stove, drinks in hand and we again started dragging anchor. By this time it was dark! We tried one more place and decided to hell with this in the dark and sailed back to ”ICRJ s ADR” only to find another boat on our mooring. The response is censored. Well no problem we used one of the nearby houses mooring buoys and had a peaceful night. The next morning we sailed back to Enseada do Sitio Forte an d anchored at Praia Passatera. As we were tying up to one of the buoys off the beach a man started waving and pointing and then he climbed into a boat and poled himself over. We thought we were about to be chased off!! He greeted us warmly and asked, in English, if we needed help! Well blow us over with a feather! It was great we immediately on settling in swam over to his beach bar for a drink. We spent 3 nights there snorkling and scuba diving on day 2. We had just finished a dive and were on our way back to the boat when our friends and race mates on “Myrtle of Bonnivale” arrived. The went and anchored at Praia Tapera and we planned to meet at the floating bar called “Bacana’s Bar”. The bar is owned and run by a Red Indian chap and his family. We named him Bacana, not knowing if it was right or not as not one of them spoke a word of English. We have great time trying to communicate; the locals are so patient and enounce the words slowly trying to get us to understand. The more “chope” (draught beer) we drink the easier it becomes J We ordered oysters, Bacana goes to the end of the floating platform, pulls up a basket of fresh oysters picks out our 24 (we had 2 plates between 5) and opens them. Fresh from the sea has never been to literal. WE have long conversations everyone laughing and talking and not one understands the other. Bacana has a turtle he calls “Cash Hilda” well that how he pronounces it. He calls her name and she arrives and is rewarded with fish which she eats from his hand. What a treat, she is simply beautiful. A great day spend with Myrtles crew Pierre (owner) , Jennifer and Derek, who are sailing back with him. They left his morning back to Angra dos Reis to be stamped out. We up anchored and set off for a dive site we had heard of being a downed helicopter. I don’t have to explain our interest. We found it quite easily and had a good hour scuba and then snorkelling the site. Having satisfied our curiosity we set off for a new anchorage called Lagua Azur (Blue Lagoon). We had just set our anchor when the heavens opened up on us. Great excitement, valves turned to full our water tanks with fresh water and every available bucket put on deck to gather water for washing tomorrow. More info later. From a peaceful rainy Il ha Grande we wish you well.

Beyond Rio

23:09.3S  044:08.2W

24^th February 2011 Thursday.

Rio and beyond.

So we have left Rio at last!

We planned to leave early on Tuesday morning early but “circumstances” intervened and we didn’t get going! It was meant to be, because at about 11h00 our “immigration agent” (Fabricio) arrived on the jetty to tell us he had to go and check us out at Port control before we could leave!

This was after telling us and the other people cruising, we didn’t have to check out unless we left the county/ province, being Rio de Janeiro. We discovered our friends on Myrtle of Bonnivale had sailed all the way to Angra dos Reis and when they wanted to check in they were told they had to go back to Rio and check out first! This is about a 12 hour sail back up the coast! Well Pierre caught a taxi back (R$1000.00 later) to come and do the necessary. The thing is this “expert immigration agent” was employed for the princely sum of US$ 500.00 per boat to make all the comings and goings smooth. We have been told since by our local friends we were all taken for a total ride. In fact their words were,” there are no shark in the sea in Rio only on the land”.

The other thing we have discovered in Rio is “Carioca time” (local Rio people’s time.) It makes African time seem efficient!  Luckily  we were not in a hurry and spent the day catching up on washing, cleaning the boat and other chores. J Well he finally brought our documents at about 20h00. Having told us he would be back in about 4 hours! So as you can see “meant to be”.

With him arriving so late, and the fact we had had dinner and drinks at the club, we stayed tied on to the jetty instead of moving out into the Bay back to our anchorage! This is not a good idea as we discovered when we first arrived, as Brazilian mosquitoes are Rambo’s of the mosquito world. The first few nights we spent tied up, we were attacked by swarms of mozzies, they nearly carried all four of us out of the boat. Having trusty Doom and Tabard at hand I sprang into action! Horror of horrors Brazilian mozzies use SA mozzie products as steroids. I swear that as we sprayed they were breathing in deeper and as they did they exploded and one became four! I would swear when I put down the spray bottle they were sticking their proboscis into the hole where they spray comes out to drink more! Well we have since got Brazilian mozzie spray that works much better.

The last few days at the Rio club we had no or very intermittent internet; so to those who think I have ignored their messages please forgive me. The internet was flashing on every 20 mins for between 5 and 15 mins and then would die again. So sorry!

Well back to the beyond Rio. We set sail at about 07h00 and cruised down the coast. Brazil’s coast is incredibly long. It took us 12 hours to get to the start of the area we are heading for “Il ha Grande” (The locals pronounce is Ill ah Grunge jay) There are 364 islands around Il ha Grande, one for each day of the year! We planned to stay a month or so……… hmmm. ;)

We were going  to meet Myrtle at an anchorage but by the time we reached the area it was pitch dark and we decided to go the first anchorage.

So here we are in Enseada Das Palmas.  I woke to the sounds of birds on the land (sounds like parrots) not motor boats and cars like n Rio. The anchorage is so pretty. A cove surrounded by forest. Two long beach’s just a short way off.  On waking I see there are 5 other yachts at anchor here.

There are two anchorages at Enseada Das Palmas, Praia Grande das Palmas which is nearer to the entrance of the cove and the sea. We chose not to stop there last night it felt a little “exposed” to passing traffic. We stopped at Praia (Beach) dos Mangues.

It is very pretty and we will go exploring later. We say sat on deck having coffee and watched two frigate birds playing tag with a piece of something. One would scoop it off the water then the other would swoop in close and he would drop it. The second one then did the same. It happened at least 6 times before they flew off with their treat.

Oh and we experienced our second rain, 2 days ago we had an awesome rain storm preceded by thunder and lightning. It was beautiful. This morning woke to soft rain on my face, well the hatch was open J

For the twitchers out there, bird list so far: The magnificent Frigate bird (male and female) : Neotropic Cormorant: Great Egret: Snowy Egret ( I love his bright yellow feet): Great Kiskadee: White winged Swallow: Icui Ground Dove: Masked Water-Tyrant: Noddy.

There are two I have not been able to identify ( I have a very basic bird book bought in Rio) They are both about the size of a Noddy and fly over the sea. One has black wings and throat with white tummy and head. The other is brown with a pale blue head extending to its beak. With no internet I can’t google them. Help guys?

So day 2 of “Rio and beyond” begins.

Love to all.

Testing photo send. Hope it works.

Corcovada - The Redeemer Statue

Roberto waiting for tram

World Flags

Rio de Janeiro

Reflections

Phase Two!

PHASE TWO

So we are alone!!

Kevin left on his delivery back to Cape Town and Rob flew back to the “real world”. We were sad to see them go. It was an awesome trip and we could not have wished for better team mates.

Rio is an amazing city. It is geared towards health and fitness. There are cycle paths and running / walking routes everywhere. At about 16h00 people of all shapes, age and sex take to the street paths cycling, running or walking. The beaches are full of volleyball players and footballers. We brought Andre’s bike with and bought me one here yesterday so we have joined the Carioca’s (as the local people are known as)

Last night one of the local guys we met at the prize giving took us to a local night club called Samba da Laje. Everyone arrives at about midnight and there is a Samba band playing. The club is on the roof of an old building. By 01h00 the place is jam packed and everyone is dancing on the spot. Alcohol is sold in sixes. You order a beer and get a bucket of ice with 6 quarts in. If you don’t drink them they refund you for the ones left.  We finally left at about 04h00. Feeling surprisingly good this morning!!

Today we left early and cycled all along the coast to Ipenema Beach and back. We stopped for a swim and to watch the locals. We finally got back at about 16h00 burnt, tired and salty.

Tomorrow Marcelio, who took us to the club, is bringing friends to come and “barbeque” on the boat.

We have a few things to get on Monday and plan to leave Rio for Il ha Grande on Tuesday.

My Portuguese is coming along well, I can now also swear fluently haha.

More soon my brain is refusing to work this evening.

RIO DE JANEIRO

So we made it. Sorry about the silence but the internet here is very "iffy".

About 30 minutes after posting my last blog, we were all sitting counting the miles and hours to go, knowing we would be able to pass Myrtle if we could maintain the speed we were doing under the spinnaker, then there was this "BANG" like a shot going off............. we blew our Spinnaker!!!!!!!!! Within about a second and with no change to the wind speed or any warning our spinnaker (genniker: the big kite like sail we had been using most of the way) blew out. It ripped about a meter up from the tack and right across the corner. :( So our race was over. We quickly snuffed the sail and pulled the main up and the genoa out and kept going but our speed was down about 3 knots. :( 

Well we enjoyed the race and the cruise and had a ball and are then second anyway lol :) 

As we reached Cabo Frio we turned on our engines. It took another 6 ours for us to get to the finish line. Its a long long way :). 

Rio is awesome from the sea at night. The "follow me" boat met us an the line and led the way to our swing mooring at the yacht club. On reaching there at 0400 hrs we cracked a 5 year old bottle of KWV Brandy and drinking it straight up we had killed it by 0600hrs. At about 0800hrs we caught the "cockarocko" (sea-taxi runs 24 hours for the yachts) over to the club to get signed into Brazil. That took a good 4 hours and in the meantime Rob and Kevin sampled the Rio beer. We were soon to join them and stuck there till about 1500hrs when we poured over to the boat for a sleep. By 1800 we were up showered and ready to hit the club to check our opinion on their beer. lol. Well it was a long trip :) 

I have never been a beer drinker but due to extreme language disabilities one takes whatever one gets so we drink beer or caparinhas. :) 

Caparinha night was last night. We caught the bus to Copacabana beach and walked along sampling the different stalls Caparinhas. Once we decided on a stall for dinner, it had a guy playing music and singing in english, we settled to watch the beach volley football and relax. It was actually quite funny as although the guy was singing in English, reading the words, it soon became obvious he had no idea what they meant :) Dinner was hilarious, we went through all the waiters in the place trying to find one that understood us. After many tries we ended up pointing to things on the menu until he nodded and we all had that. It turned out our first dinner in Brazil was a cheese burger. hahahaha. 

Today was boat wash and scrub day then back to the club for beer lunch, phew life is tough in Brazil. Tonight there is a local restaurant that is known as the place to eat meat, as much as you like for a fixed price of R$30.00. It is going to be amusing to see what we end up with. 

More on that soon.

Thanks to all for the messages, emails, love and good wishes.

the rat CATchers

Min Ure!

Min Ure!

Thanks to all who have been "blowing" and praying its working like a bomb.
We have been flying since yesterday averaging about 8 knots.

All eyes have been on our chart plotter since yesterday as it shows how many
hours until the finish based on our speed. So we have watched as it passed
below 50 then 40 then 30 and now we have about 18 hours to go if we maintain
this speed. It even drops to 12 hours when we surf down a wave. So this time
tomorrow morning we should be in Rio! Whoopee!!

We all looking forward to a hot shower; clothes washed in fresh water and
clean fresh linen.

At the moment the seas are still very lumpy and bumpy as they have been the
last 24 hours or so. We also have a current of about 3.8 knots pushing us
down; but we should be crossing onto the continental shelf in the next
couple of hours which mean the current should disappear and the seas
flatten.

Please don't stop blowing and praying yet. our competition, "Myrtle of
Bonnivale", is still ahead of us and we are hoping they have not been able
to keep up their speed and that they have no hours left to motor. The
weather says that there is very little wind after "Carbo Frio" (sp). It
means if Myrtle has used their engine hours we can motor through the low
winds and still pass them. We are hoping to at least cross the line before
them. We have a bigger handicap than they have so we would have to be a good
6 hours ahead to beat them.

We have not caught more fish, more's the pity. The evening we caught, our
Sushi Chef,Andre made us the most awesome dinner of sushi and sashimi. We
pigged on it. We have eaten all the fish except 3 fillets which we froze so
need more bites. Hopefully in the slower seas along the coast we just may
get another.

So tomorrow evening we will be downing "Caparihna's" in true Brazilian
fashion.

More when we get there.

The rat catchers.

Fish!

 WE CAUGHT A FISH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

In fact we caught 2 within a few mins of each other. One was still strong
and unhurt so he got released and the other, also a Wahoo about 1.2 meters
long weighing about 10 - 12 kgs was prepared for the pan. Much excitement!!!
We were beginning to think all the fish really were at Trawlers!

She was filleted and prepared. Roberto our sea cuisine chef made garlic pan
bread. Kevin got the braai going and Andre cooked fillets to perfection.
There is still enough left for a few days of meals and some in the freezer.
As befitting the event; breakfast was consumed washed down by champagne.


The wind has picked up some today and if it holds we should be in Rio in 4 - 6 days, so please don't stop blowing everyone. It is with mixed feelings the finish of the crossing is in sight as I can't help feeling our holiday" will be over. Man am I in for a wonderful surprise!

Love to all from fish filled rat catchers.

Blow!!!!!!!!!

2^nd February 2011

All together now....................BLOWWWWWWWWWWW!

Having been stuck in the middle of the high in the doldrums the last 3 days
or so; is wonderful for cruising. We have been swimming and relaxing.

Well of a sort; for racing this is bad bad bad! The Captain (Andre) and our
navigator (Kevin) have been tearing their hair out. The other catamaran that
has been behind us most of the way has now overtaken us. We have to assume
they have used up all the miles they were allowed to use their engines for.
Well we are hoping they have. We have used some of our hours when the wind
speed stayed at 0 for hours. This morning the wind is up slightly and we are
now making about 3 - 4 knots per our. The last two days our average over 3
hours has been less than 1 knot. Ouch!!

So as I said guys all together now: BLOW! Please :)

The sea is just awesome, the colors are indescribable. One can say blue but
until you have seen it "blue" does it no justice. When we swim and dive down
as far as you can go its an amazing sensation, you have nothing to judge
your depth by just surrounded by the most amazing color with rays of
sunshine going down forever.

What has amazed me is the lack of sealife. Other than flying fish we have
seen nothing. Kevin said one night he saw a couple of dolphin swimming with
us for a short while but otherwise nothing. Twice we have found the hook on
our lure has been pulled straight! So we didn't see anything on it but it
must have been big to pull the curve out of the hook.

This morning Kevin and I saw a fish about 1 meter long jump out of the water
twice just near our lure but we didn't catch him. We all keen for some nice
fresh sashimi!

Our bird escort, we think is a tern (he is chocolate brown with a white mark
on head / beak) that seems to have been with us for the whole trip took a
break last night and spent the night as a stowaway sleeping on our wind
generator. Quite amazing I put on a red torch and went within a meter of him
and he just looked at the light in disgust as if to say "How rude, you woke
me". The pile of bird turd on the solar panel was his revenge for his
interrupted sleep we think!

So we have 789 nm to go to the finish which is about 10 days sailing at this
speed, so we desperately need more wind to get there sooner and before our
competition and before the cutoff on the 12th.

So all the "rat catchers" ask for prayers for wind and good following seas.

Love to all from "there where there be dragons!"